You know the summer event season is underway when The Hukilau blows through South Florida in early June, serving up a whirlwind weekend of live music, expert symposiums, pool parties, vendors, and cocktails crafted by notable bartenders from around the world. As a bonus this year, hundreds of Hukilau passholders were invited to attend an event inside freshly renovated spaces of the historic Mai-Kai restaurant for the first time in five years.
RELATED: The Hukilau 2024 live coverage, photos and video from social media
The Hukilau 2024 – June 6-9 at the Beachcomber Resort & Club in Pompano Beach. Featuring live music (Messer Chups, Surfer Joe, L’Exotighost, Slowey and the Boats, Lords of Atlantis, The Intoxicators, The Disasternauts, The Mermers, Skinny Jimmy Stingray), symposiums and classes (Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Ian “Rum Ambassador” Burrell, David Wondrich, Matt Pietrek, Daniele Dalla Pola, Spike Marble, Marie King, Lucky Munro), 20+ guest cocktail bars, pool parties, Tiki Treasures Bazaar, plus more.
• The Hukilau on social media: Instagram | Facebook page and group
The location is also hard to beat. While South Florida’s heat and humidity can be stifling at this time of year, the location of a boutique hotel directly on the Atlantic Ocean with its gentle breezes and beachfront access makes up for that. The Hukilau takes over the entire 140-room Beachcomber Resort for three nights and parts of four days, meaning the immersion in a tropical paradise is complete. Attendees spill over into other beachfront hotels, and classes were also held this year in a nearby event space.
After more than 20 years (this was the 21st live event in South Florida and 22nd overall), event attendees (known as “villagers”) know what to expect with the weather. Sporadic showers are welcome to cool things off, but this year was even hotter than usual, averaging around 90 in the day and 78 in the evening. Many activities are held outdoors, which can be a challenge.
But the resort’s pools and shaded areas, not to mention all the cool beverages, gave guests ample ways to beat the heat. Other than an early Saturday storm, the event was free of rain and nobody seemed to mind the challenges Mother Nature presented. Like Tiki itself, the event was the perfect escape from the daily grind.
The Atomic Grog’s photos, video and highlights
More below: Presentations & classes
• Beachbum Berry & David Wondrich | Matt Pietrek | Will Anders
Photos: Exclusive tours of The Mai-Kai | More Hukilau photos
• Bars & cocktails | Bonus recipes: Tropical Messiah | Once A Villager
THE MUSIC
As detailed in our full preview in March, the lineup of bands performing this year had an unprecedented global flair. Surf and exotica groups dominated, and musicians hailing from Russia, Spain, Italy and around the United States made the trek to perform on the main poolside stage as well as several other spots around the Beachcomber property.
The performances lived up to the hype and anticipation with all the bands delivering top-notch sets, from the Mermers on Thursday night to the Saturday night headlining hijinx of The Disasternauts. Saturday’s early afternoon rain slowed the momentum but couldn’t stop the party. Slowey and the Boats shifted to an evening set under the courtyard tent, where they also played Friday night to give the bungalow parties a perfect laid-back soundtrack. They also performed poolside on Friday afternoon.
Messer Chups, L’Exotighost and Lords of Atlantis all played The Hukilau for the first time, while Surfer Joe made his second appearance. They peformed on the main stage both Friday and Saturday, allowing villagers more opportunity to catch these rare treats. Hukilau stalwarts The Intoxicators also played twice, headlining Thursday night under the South Tiki Hut and returning for a blistering afternoon set poolside on Saturday. And don’t forget local guitar slinger Skinny Jimmy Stingray, who kicked off Saturday’s party on the main stage.
Below you’ll find photos of all the bands presented in chronological order. We also captured six of the nine bands on video. You can watch the full song clips below, or click here and bookmark our Hukilau 2024 playlist on YouTube for future enjoyment.
Returning to The Hukilau seven years after their 2017 debut, The Mermers bought tons of talent and creativity to their set of instrumental alternative surf and exotica. The foursome from Gainesville, Fla., has two albums to its credit and performs extensively across the region.
Hailing from Madrid, Spain, L’Exotighost brought a new spin on classic exotica to The Hukilau with a distinctive style that employed guitar, drums and bass ukulele, plus vibraphone, theremin and other exotic sounds. The four-piece band’s poolside sets Friday and Saturday featured songs from its latest album, Kamongo (2022), available on Hi-Tide Recordings.
Saint Petersburg, Russia’s hard-touring Messer Chups played The Hukilau for the first time as Friday night’s headliner, performing songs from throughout their decades-long career. Prolific recording artists, they just released the Dark Side of Paradise LP in May on Hi-Tide Recordings.
The music of Slowey and the Boats set the tone for The Hukilau 2024, familiar yet exotic and always pairing well with the delicious cocktails and tropical surroundings. The band made multiple appearances, from the main stage to the bungalow courtyard, performing songs from their three albums on Hi-Tide Recordings. A new LP, Slowey Goes West, is due out July 28.
Skinny Jimmy Stingray and his band rocked the Saturday pool party, awaking villagers after an early rain delay. Based in nearby Deerfield Beach, the instrumental surf guitarist made his ninth appearance at The Hukilau dating back to 2013.
As Saturday heated up, The Intoxicators appeared calm and cool in their matching black suits. But their sizzling set had all the energy we’ve come to expect from the Tallahassee-based instrumental surf band, performing for a record 18th time at The Hukilau since 2005. The band also headlined the Thursday night festivities.
You would never know that The Hukilau was only the third ever live appearance by Lords of Atlantis, judging by the surf supergroup’s two flawless sets on the main stage Friday and Saturday. The band – featuring members of the Madeira, Aqualads, The Space Cossacks, The Blair-Pongracic Band, The Manakooras, and The A-Men – sounded tight and well-rehearsed in introducing the crowd to the progressive instrumental tunes from the self-titled 2023 debut album on Tabu Recordings.
The icing on the cake of The Hukilau’s surf music lineup was Lorenzo Valdambrini, the Italian guitarist better known as Surfer Joe. Returning for the first time since his event debut in 2019, Valdambrini was joined by longtime touring drummer Pieter Dedoncker, plus bassist Jonpaul Balak doing double duty in two bands both Friday and Saturday, along with his presentation on Tiki album covers.
Last but not least, The Disasternauts were the final band on the main stage, capping off Saturday night’s party with their usual primal fury (and ubiquitous Dancing Banana Man). Hailing from the wilds near Cape Canaveral, Fla., the simian supergroup has performed at The Hukilau countless times over the years, coincidentally most of the same years The Intoxicators were on the bill.
More coverage: Photos, video of the bands from social media
Seven of the nine bands have songs available for streaming on Spotify, so we put together our annual playlist featuring 72 minutes of music guaranteed so put you back into a Hukilau frame of mind. Click here to launch Spotify or use the player below.
• Past Hukilau playlists: 2023 | 2022 | 2019 | 2018
• Past Hukilau videos: 2023 | 2022
PRESENTATIONS & CLASSES
The Hukilau was the first major Tiki event to add educational symposiums to its lineup some 20 years ago, and it continues to bring top-notch “edu-tainment” to villagers year after year. Some other events may offer more content, but it’s hard to top the caliber of The Hukilau’s presenters.
Acclaimed author and cocktail historian Jeff “Beachbum” Berry from New Orleans (and Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29) presented his very first symposium 18 years ago, in 2006 (mahalo to original co-organizer and co-founder Christie “Tiki Kiliki” White). He has been joined in recent years by New York City’s David Wondrich, a fellow award-winning author and historian who brings a new dimension to The Hukilau, along with some entertaining presentations.
London-based global rum ambassador Ian Burrell has also become a fixture, appearing at The Hukilau more than any other Tiki event. His cache has only grown with his own rum brand (Equiano) and arrival of his first book (Rum: A Tasting Course), due out in September, just in time for his annual UK RumFest in October.
Another noted rum and cocktail author who frequents The Hukilau, Matt “Rum Wonk” Pietrek (Minimalist Tiki and Modern Caribbean Rum) brings a wealth of knowledge as a researcher to his presentations, as well his new role as a independent book publisher.
In addition to a revolving cast of special guests, recent years have seen the addition of many guest bartenders and bar owners who bring a unique, highly enjoyable (and typically boozy) point of view to their classes and presentations. This year’s lineup included Daniele Dalla Pola (Kaona Room), Marie King (Don the Beachcomber), Jen Ann Tonic (Swizzle), Devon Kitty Lopez (Bar Tiki), Arelene and Katie (The Mermaid), Adam Henry (Hidden Harbor), Scotty Schuder (Dirty Dick), Maria Cabrero (Cocomama Tiki Room), plus more.
My duties leading tours at The Mai-Kai all day Friday (see below) unfortunately kept me from attending as many sympoisiums as I would have liked. But those I did attend and document below were top-notch.
‘World War Tiki’ with Berry & Wondrich
At the top of my list is anything where Jeff “Beachbum” Berry and David Wondrich collaborate. I missed Friday’s Wind From the East: Tiki’s East Asian Mixologists, but I was able to grab a front-row seat for World War Tiki: Fighting the Big One on One Hundred Million Drinks a Day at 5 p.m. Saturday. It was the only presentation under the large North Tiki Hut that’s typically reserved for the Beachcomber’s oceanfront Deep Restaurant.
Presentations like this, which come at no additional charge with most event passes, make the price tag worthwhile. You rarely see these legends together on one stage, and their individual symposiums often come at premium ticket price. On top of that, this hourlong event featured four cocktails that were designed to pair with specific stories in the slideshow that Berry and Wondrich designed.
The Hukilau’s beverage director, Phoebe Esmon, personally supervised and mixed up the cocktails with her crew to the right of the presentation, cranking out Don the Beachcomber’s Three Dots and a Dash and Trader Vic’s PB2Y2 Gremlin, along with more esoteric concoctions.
I very much enjoy the solo presentations by Berry and Wondrich, where they have the freedom to dive deep into their areas of interest. But what makes their tag-team efforts outstanding is the interplay between the two authors, the sharp-witted quips, and the camaraderie that gives what could be dry historical material a fun, off-the-cuff feel.
That being said, they made sure to preface their talk with a shout-out to all the war veterans in the audience and the caveat that they had the utmost respect for those in the armed services. Most of the jokes came at the expense of the troops the Allies were fighting, particularly those nutty Germans.
The focus of the presentation was the ingenuity of the Americans, along with the support from those in leadership roles. World War Tiki did not disappoint. It was full of fascinating stories, from the activities of Donn Beach and Victor Bergeron to the troops on the front lines.
I thought I knew everything there was to know about Beach, the godfather of Tiki cocktails, but Berry and Wondrich revealed some interesting new facts. Beach rose to the rank of lieutenant colonel in the Army Air Force, using his wits and resources to create lavish (and much needed) R&R bases for officers and enlisted men alike in Casablanca (1943), Capri (1944), and the south of France (1945). “He made sure the American soldier was taken care of,” Wondrich said.
In addition to the comforting food and drink, he acquired linens to make the soldiers who were lucky enough to survive combat more comfortable in his rest camps. “Nobody had sheets for the beds in Army camps,” Wondrich said. Beach also had his own fishing boats to catch fresh seafood and bargained for fresh eggs. “Combat was so horrible, when they were out of combat they deserved the very best that Don the Beachcomber could do,” Wondrich added. “They deserved to be treated like people were treated in Hollywood at his restaurant.”
As Italy was coming under Allied control, Wondrich said, Beach went into Torino ahead of the American troops. He met with the director of Martini & Rossi, buying all of the company’s vermouth. “His troops basically liberated the town,” Wondrich said. “Don the Beachcomber liberated Torino.”
Wondrich and Berry posed their theory that Beach’s eccentric heroics during World War II likely inspired the character Milo Minderbender in the 1961 novel (and 1970 film) Catch-22. The character of an enterprising mess officer, created by author Joseph Heller, has been called “perhaps the best known of all fictional businessmen” in American literature.
“There’s not a doubt in my mind” that Heller based the character on Beach, Wondrich said, adding that Heller exaggerated the stories and had Minderbender do some things Beach never would have, such as arrange to have the Germans bomb his own base. “A lot of the shenanigans are actually Don the Beachcomber,” Wondrich said. “That’s what he did.”
Berry added that Heller was an officer in the Army Air Force in one of the same locations where Beach operated rest camps. He saw what Beach was able to do, offering troops everything from bowling alleys to fine dining. “That’s true hospitality,” Wondrich said.
For more on Donn Beach’s life and times, look for upcoming film festival showings and future releases of The Donn of Tiki, which premiered in April. Due for release next year is Searching for Don the Beachcomber, an autobiography by author Tim “Swanky” Glazner featuring never-before-seen information from Beach’s archives.
Related: The Donn of Tiki makes a splash at Florida Film Festival
• Donn Beach biography expected next spring
From Don to Denizen with Rum Wonk
Also reaching back to the early Don the Beachcomber era, Matt Pietrek earned his Rum Wonk moniker with From Don to Denizen – The Evolution of Tiki Rums, a presentation at 2 p.m. Saturday under the South Tiki Hut. It was enlightening to learn about (and taste) the past, present and future of the spirit that defines classic tropical cocktails.
VIDEO: Watch the presentation on YouTube (edited) (My Rum Diaries)
Pietrek enhanced his talk with lots of historical info and images, a fact-based approach to an often fuzzy topic that’s always appreciated. Along the way, he busted myths and clarified origin stories. For example, did you know that the spirits from Martinique used in many of Beach’s and Trader Vic’s early cocktails were not at all like today’s grassy “rhum agricole” distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice? They were instead molasses-based rums that were more similar in style to the rums of English-speaking islands such as Jamaica. [Watch video]
These rums pre-dated Martinique’s strict AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée), adopted in 1996. While similar in style, they’re not exactly the same as today’s “grand arôme rums,” a key element in the Denizen brand referenced in the symposium’s title. Pietrek cites evidence that this high-ester rum was likely used only for blending. While Denizen is a fine mixing rum and makes a delicious Mai Tai, Pietrek points out that the blend of Jamaican and Martinique grand arôme rums is not exactly what Tiki’s forefathers were using. For a deep dive on this topic, check out this post on Pietrek’s Cocktail Wonk blog from 2021. [Watch video]
Pietrek also explored a more recent example of a brand trying to recreate a historic blend: The much ballyhooed Appleton Estate Legend, a 17-year-old Jamaican rum that purports to replicate the rum used in Trader Vic’s original 1944 Mai Tai. While not doubting the veracity of master blender Joy Spence’s story about the rum’s origin, Pietrek did poke a few holes in the Appleton storyline. [Watch video]
Other modern “Tiki rums” were discussed, including Plantation O.F.T.D., the overproof blend of rums from Jamaica, Guyana and Barbados introduced in 2018. Hukilau 2024 attendees Scotty Schuder, Beachbum Berry and David Wondrich (the latter sitting a few rows back during Pietrek’s presentation) were part of the “dream team” that helped master distiller Alexandre Gabriel create the blend. It was Wondrich’s late suggestion of adding Barbados rum to the blend that solidified the finished product, which has become a staple in modern Tiki bars. | [Watch video]
The presentation reached its climax with a surprise tasting of the new (unreleased and unavailable) Mai-Kai Rum No. 1, which will be used at the historic restaurant when it reopens later this year. It seeks to replace the classic “dark Jamaican” mixing rum that The Mai-Kai adopted from Don the Beachcomber, originally the iconic Dagger brand. I had not tasted this 100-proof blend of rums from Jamaica and Barbados since its introduction in February 2023, so I was excited to enjoy it again. It was just as good as I remember.
In presenting the rum, Pietrek brought up veteran Miami Rum Renaissance Festival promoter and spirits expert Robert A. Burr, who was part of The Mai-Kai’s team that developed the rum. He helped set up the partnership with Alexandre Gabriel, who owns Maison Ferrand (Planteray Rum) as well as the West Indies Rum Distillery (WIRD) in Barbados. The blend was created there by master distiller Don Benn using historic stills from WIRD as well as the Long Pond Distillery in Jamaica.
Burr said WIRD’s refurbished historic stills – the 19th century Vulcan chamber still and 18th century Rockley pot still – are ushering in “a new era in old-style rum.” We can’t go back in time, he said, but using the stills and old methods along with research and experimentation, we can “make the best possible rum right now.”
Imported directly to Florida from Barbados, Mai-Kai Rum No. 1 will be available only at the restaurant after the reopening in the fall. We’re promised, however, that bottles will be available for retail purchase in the gift shop.
VIDEO: Watch the Mai-Kai Rum No. 1 portion of the presentation
Earlier Saturday in the same presentation space, musician and musicologist Jonpaul Balak discussed Tiki On Vinyl: Oceanic Art & Iconography On Album Covers while showing off vintage images from his collection. Also a noted photographer and DJ (listen to his Fiberglass Jungle show on Luxuria Music), Balak has a book in the works on the history of modern surf music.
While not “symposiums” in the traditional sense, the daily appearances of Spike Marble and Ed Hamilton were just as informative and entertaining. Marble seemed to be everywhere, from Friday’s Jungle Voyage bungalow party (with Rita’s Lost weekend and Hi-Tide Recordings), to Saturday’s tasting of the new Hamilton Breezeway Blend rum, to Sunday’s live recording of Spike’s Breezeway Cocktail Hour. The latter two events were co-hosted by Hamilton, the brand owner and importer who brought the rum to market in record time.
Marble even found the time to serve as official event photographer and also host Sunday’s Hukilau Hangover party at Kaona Room in Miami with Daniele Dalla Pola. The Breezeway Blend rum is excellent, of course, and the quick success is no surprise. The multi-island blend (mostly Trinidad and Jamaica) falls into a growing niche of premium “white” mixing rums, but at a very accessible price point.
During the Spike’s Breezeway recording, the pair talked about how the rum was born during an episode of the show, then took off faster than any of Hamilton’s previous releases. Leveraging his YouTube show’s fanbase, Marble was able to promote the rum before its release and urge viewers to call their local stores and distributors to request it. The strategy worked. Hamilton also cited Marble’s design skills and palette in helping him craft both the bottle and the juice within.
Also garnishing their entertainment with education was the team from Bare Bones Tiki, creators of the annual “Camp Tikiwachee” activities. These included lei-making and Tiki macrame classes, a scavenger hunt, poolside “Dive-in Movie,” make-your-own camp tye-dye shirts, and more.
Mahalo to all the other presenters not mentioned above: Darren Perlmutter, Johnny & Shanna Lowe (Rita’s Lost Weekend), Don & LuRu Rudawsky (Hammerhead Hideaway), Tony Canepa, Carlos Cuarta, plus anyone else I missed. One more is discussed below.
‘The Mai-Kai from the Outside In’ with Will Anders
There’s one more presentation that deserves extensive coverage, and not just because I helped put it together. The Mai-Kai from the Outside In with Will Anders was a fascinating, insightful look inside the career (and mind) of the South Florida artist who had a lot to do with the look and feel of the grounds of the historic restaurant over the past 20 years. Mahalo to the standing-room-only crowd of some 70 or so people who turned out at 10:30 a.m. Saturday at the South Tiki Hut for the triumphant return to The Hukilau of the reclusive artist.
Previous coverage: Inside (and outside) The Mai-Kai with Tiki carver Will Anders
It was his first appearance at the event since before the pandemic, but he was definitely not forgotten. When he asked for a show of hands, there were quite a few villagers in attendance who took one of his popular hands-on carving classes between 2016 and 2019. Judging by the round of applause at the end of the hour-long talk, Anders will be back to teach a new round of students the artistic styles he taught himself.
His life story is engaging, especially when it comes direct from the diminutive artist with a seeming unlimited amount of energy and curiosity. It all began at The Mai-Kai in his youth during the mid-1960s, when he and his buddies would ride their bicycles to the exotic restaurant and frolic in the fountains.
Luckily, management didn’t remember him as the young hooligan when he went into the vending machine business. He ended up stocking The Mai-Kai’s cigarette machine from 1973 until he retired in 2012. Along the way, his appreciation for the Tiki carvings and Oceanic art in the restaurant continued to grow, inspiring him at around age 40 to start his carving career. Anders has never looked back.
Anders praised artist and carver Ben “Benzart” Davis as a key influence and mentor early in his career after he participated in a carving class at Benzart’s South Florida home. By 2004, he convinced the manager of the gift shop to sell two of his carvings. Much to his surprise, they were purchased by The Mai-Kai itself. So began a relationship that spanned the next two decades. .
He told the story of creating his first large carving using architectural foam, a tribute to The Mai-Kai’s Mara Amu mug that has stood since 2015 in the outdoor Tiki garden. Having no means to haul large logs, he opted for the lighter (and more durable) foam. He remembered transporting the 8-by-4-foot icon to The Mai-Kai by himself, and the surprise in manager Kern Mattei’s face when he answered the back door and saw Anders standing there carrying the massive Tiki.
But Anders’ logistical challenges were soon solved when The Hukilau’s co-founder, Christie “Tiki Kiliki” White, introduced him to Lonnie Dryden, a local large equipment operator and hauler who shared their love of The Mai-Kai. A friendship and cooperative arrangement bloomed. Dryden would deliver giant logs to Anders at his Fort Lauderdale compound, then assist with the transportation and installation of the finished carvings.
This serendipitous workflow allowed Anders to create the two giant signature carvings that stand in The Mai-Kai’s garden: The 10-foot King Kai (installed in May 2016) and 7-foot Hiroa Nui (installed in December 2016). Also in 2016, he joined forces with fellow Florida carvers Tom Fowner and Jeff Chouinard (aka Surf Soul Tiki) to add three new carvings to The Mai-Kai’s porte-cochère. (The Tiki trio is currently in storage, but will return as part of the reimagined entryway.)
Arguably even more so than the large carvings, the artist’s most significant contributions to the look and feel of The Mai-Kai are the hundreds of small pieces that he has cast in cement since around 2005. Anders says he recently filled the last of the molds that he started “checking out” from The Mai-Kai’s warehouse nearly 20 years ago.
Anders concentrated a large portion of the presentation on these efforts, showing off a war club that he brought from his home studio. Over the years, he kept his own copies of pieces he re-created for The Mai-Kai, many of which are featured in a story on Anders in Polynesiacs: Tiki at Home by Tiki Tom-Tom (Wonk Press, 2023). It’s said that Bob Thornton, one of the founding owners, had the molds made in the 1970s when the carvings and South Seas artifacts that he and his brother Jack had collected began to deteriorate in the brutal South Florida weather.
But tropical rain, heat and humidity can be detrimental even to cement. When Anders was introduced to the stash of molds by Mattei in the early 2000s, many of the pieces were in dire need of replacement. Anders came up with his own cement mix and workflow, methodically replacing every small carving, war club, spear and anything that was made into a mold.
It’s safe to say that Anders has “cemented his legacy” at The Mai Kai, but there’s a lot more to his artistic output. A tour of his home studio reveals a plethora of original pieces, from pedants to door pulls to pepper grinders. With no sign of slowing down, we expect Anders to continue to exlpore Tiki art and carving for years to come.
• Follow, talk to Anders on Tiki Central
Inside (and outside) The Mai-Kai with Tiki carver Will Anders
The South Florida artist shares his experiences creating authentic Polynesian art – both large and small. This Hukilau preview story also includes an audio-visual waking tour from 2018.
Exclusive Mai-Kai sneak preview tours
For 17 years, The Hukilau and The Mai-Kai were inextricably linked. The event moved from Atlanta to Fort Lauderdale in 2003 specifically because of the historic restaurant, its acclaimed Polynesian Islander Revue, fantastic decor, delicious cocktails, and time-capsule atmosphere. Host hotels came and went, but The Mai-Kai was like a rock, welcoming villagers to pre- and post-event parties, symposiums and special events, plus the traditional main event dinner show when hundreds packed the showroom for two performances of the oldest continually-running authentic South Seas stage show in the United States (including Hawaii).
• Photos: The Mai-Kai through the eyes of The Hukilau villagers
NEW: Inside the Molokai Bar and tour of The Mai-Kai restoration
That all came to a halt after a memorable event in 2019. The pandemic forced The Hukilai to hold a virtual event at The Mai-Kai in June 2020. The restaurant persevered another four months until a devastating roof collapse in October 2020 completely shut down service indefinitely for the first time since its December 1956 opening.
The Hukilai and The Mai-Kai played the cards they were dealt and came out the other side. In September 2021, when the event moved to the Beachcomber Resort, The Mai-Kai remained a centerpiece by hosting a special event on Saturday under the porte-cochère featuring cocktails and musicians from the stage show. Family matriarch Mireille Thornton joined in the fun while her daughter, Kulani Gelardi, thrilled the crowd with the announcement of the new partnership and sale of the property that would ensure the survival of the restaurant.
Then the real work began. The new ownership team, led by Bill Fuller of the Barlington Group, assembled a venerable group of architects, designers and craftsmen to make its grand new vision a reality. The plan is much more involved than just fixing the damage and reopening The Mai-Kai. Fuller is leading a project that seemingly has no limits in preserving every historic detail while at the same time reimagining the 2.7-acre property to return it to its glory days and make it an icon for generations to come.
This kind of vision comes at a cost, both in money and time. Some $15 million and 2 1/2 years later, the reopening date is still TBD but the end of the tunnel is in sight. The projected finish line this fall is roughly four years after the closing and three years after the sale and announcement at The Hukilau 2021.
When The Hukilau returned to its traditional June dates in 2022 and 2023, The Mai-Kai remained involved. Extensive construction projects prevented events from happening on the restaurant property, but the ownership and staff kept villagers satisfied with pop-up cocktail bars and other special appearances at the Beachcomber.
In 2022, The Hukilau organizer Richard Oneslager (also a major investor in The Mai-Kai ownership group) joined Fuller for a presentation at the Beachcomber in which the new owner presented his ambitious plans. Gelardi and longtime manager Kern Mattei also spoke, and later we enjoyed a South Seas show on the beach featuring Mai-Kai performers. Last year, creative director “Typhoon Tommy” Allsmiller brought villagers up to speed on his restoration work with an exclusive presentation, while Mattei returned with poolside Mai-Kai cocktails and merchadise in the Tiki Treasures Bazaar.
That brings us to 2024 and The Mai-Kai about to enter the home stretch of its restoration project. When it became clear that the restaurant would not be open in June, Oneslager made arrangements to offer guided tours for Aloha and South Seas passholders. This added perk gave hundreds of villagers an exclusive look inside The Mai-Kai for the first time in five years.
The tours were carefully structured. Buses left the Beachcomber starting at 10:30 a.m. and ran throughout the day. Kudos to Pia Dahlquist, The Mai-Kai’s longtime director of sales and marketing, for coordinating the tours on top of organizing and running the Tiki Treasures Bazaar (among other event duties). Time slots secured, passholders excitedly awaited their chance to see The Molokai bar and other parts of the restored interior and reimagined back-of-house areas.
It was announced that photography was not permitted on the tour, but a last-minute decision allowed cameras to be used only in The Molokai. Photos sprung up on social media immediately, and you can enjoy many new images of the spectacularly refurbished lounge above and below.
Each bus was divided into four groups for tours led by Mattei, Allsmiller, artist Scott “Flounder” Scheidly, and yours truly (Hurricane Hayward). When villagers arrived, they were met outside the front doors under the porte-cochère by Allsmiller and Scheidly, who showed off their work reimagining the The Mai-Kai’s existing entryway. The rest of the parking lot remains a construction zone, the final piece of the puzzle in the transformation that we’ll be following closely all summer.
When the doors swung open, the lucky visitors were greeted by fellow villagers who volunteered to help make the event happen. We’d like to recognize everyone who participated, helping with crowd flow, passing out cocktails, and other duties. They include Polly and Rich Allsmiller, Jose and Jenna Villasana, LuRu and Don Rudawsky, Cacalito and Monserrat Mendoza, and John Albert.
Bartender and spirits rep Carlos Cuarta also contributed his talents, manning the back bar and treating villagers to Panamá-Pacific Rum tastings as they made their way through the tour. Best of all, we were served cocktails by former (and future) Molokai Bar server Claudia Marmolejo wearing a replica of a vintage outfit. Since the closing, you may have seen her working at the Beachcomber Resort.
Over the course of around 2 hours, each busload got a chance to take a tour while also hanging out and taking photos in The Molokai and sipping small Barrel O’ Rum samples. Allsmiller gave each group a quick recap of his work in the bar, including the restoration of all the decor installed in the early 1970s that was previously used as set pieces in the classic 1962 film, Mutiny on the Bounty.
The tour groups moved one-by-one to the spectacular main showroom, where work is wrapping up on the dining areas as well as the dozens of vintage lamps hanging high under the 40-foot A-frame. The groups gathered in the Garden, the seating area in front of the showroom stage, marveling at the colorful restored lighting that gives the entire area a fresh new look.
From there, we made our way into the new back-of-house area, entering into a stunning new main back service bar designed by Allsmiller and his crew (Scheidly and Tom Fowner). We were greeted by Cuarta and Marmolejo, who served us samples of the classic Demerara Cocktail. This new space takes the concept of a “service bar” to a new level, with full-blown decor similar to the front-of-house.
The tour continued to give villagers a peek behind the scenes at areas they’ll likely never see again. We saw new equipment just installed in the kitchen, plus locker rooms for male and female performers that have been been designed with Polynesian-inspired volcano (red) and ocean (blue) themes.
Re-entering the front-of-house, the groups saw the newly built special-needs restroom with its high-end nautical design and gold fixtures that give you the feeling of being in the “captain’s quarters.” We then zig-zagged through the women’s and men’s restrooms, which are now fully restored with their unique theming (Asian and nautical, respectively).
The tours ended in the gift shop, where Mattei was waiting with an assortment of items that virtually sold out by the end of the day. While not yet complete, the large Mai-Kai Trading Post space features fully restored wall panels and flooring, plus a special new window that gives guests a peek into the back service bar.
Boarding the bus for their return to The Hukilau at the Beachcomber, the villagers could rest assured that The Mai-Kai was in good hands and well on its way to an unprecedented revival once all the restoration work is complete. When the 2025 event rolls around next June, it will be exciting to see everyone back in full force to enjoy a Tiki experience like no other.
EXCLUSIVE PHOTOS: Inside the Molokai Bar and tour of The Mai-Kai restoration NEW
Guests of The Hukilau got a rare look at the renovated and reimagined areas of the historic restaurant in June 2024.
>>> NEW PHOTOS AND RECAP OF THE TOURS
More on The Mai-Kai sneak preview
• Photos and video from The Hukilau villagers
• Video: Tiki Hunting with Cacalito and Monserrat
Story archive: Full coverage of The Mai-Kai refurbishment
Recent press coverage
• Lovingly restored treasure to open late summer (Florida Rambler)
• Inside the Mai-Kai Restaurant’s $15 million face-lift (Sun Sentinel)
• Famed Fort Lauderdale restaurant the Mai-Kai reopens this September (Miami New Times)
BARS & COCKTAILS
If you’re a fan of well-crafted cocktails, then The Hukilau is the event for you. In addition to all the classes and symposiums featuring top experts in the field, villagers enjoy a seemingly never-ending supply of complimentary tropical drinks served from morning until late night.
Most are presented in small or medium-sized plastic cups, but they’re still large enough to provide more than a few sips and come fully (and elaborately) garnished. Many bars will throw in one of their signature swizzle sticks or other giveaways as a bonus. While last year’s event featured some logistical challenges involving long lines and/or supplies running out, we saw none of that happening this year. Aside from the rare wait for some of the more popular bungalow parties and one temporary ice shortage, the cocktails were flowing flawlessly all weekend.
Much of the credit for the quality and quantity of the drinks can be credited to the unsung heroes of The Hukilau: the hard-working, behind-the-scenes bar team affectionately known as the Suffering Bastards. This crew of professionals, which numbers around a dozen, is committed to providing and prepping all of the supplies, batching cocktails for many of the guest bars, and making sure villagers always have delicious drinks at their fingertips. Some – most notably Phoebe Esmon and Lucky Munro – also found time to share their expertise in classes and tastings.
The Suffering Bastards are led by Esmon and Christian Gaal of North Carolina-based Spirit Animal Beverage Solutions. Esmon serves as beverage director for the event and is responsible for the huculean task of keeping track of every cocktail. The annual statistics she shares are staggering.
This year, the team oversaw the creation of 22,000 cocktails (plus 30 gallons of punch) featuring 60 gallons of lime juice, 60 gallons of pineapple juice, 30 gallons of lemon juice, 23 gallons of grapefruit juice, 5 gallons of simple syrup, 5 gallons of cinnamon syrup, 5 gallons of orgeat, 5 gallons of honey, 5,000 mint sprigs, 5,000 pineapple leaves, 2,200 orchids, 1,475 lime wheels, 1,400 lemon wheels, 1,100 parasols, 1,075 cinnamon sticks, plus a whole lot more. Esmon didn’t tally the spirits, but if you figure a minimum of 1.5 ounces per drink, that means The Hukilau served well over 250 gallons of booze.
Just as impressive was this year’s lineup of guest bars and bartenders who created most of recipes for the cocktails we consumed: Bar Tiki (Clearwater Beach, Fla.), Bare Bones Tiki (South Florida), Cocomama Tiki Room (Cozumel, Mexico), Dirty Dick (Paris, France), Doc Parks (San Francisco), Don the Beachcomber (Madeira Beach, Fla.), Hidden Harbor (Pittsburgh), The Honu (Dunedin, Fla.), Huli Huli (Powell, Ohio), Kahala Koa (Arlington Heights, Ill), Kaona Room (Miami), Luau Lads (Jacksonville, Fla.), Max’s South Seas Hideaway (Grand Rapids, Mich.), The Mermaid (Los Angeles), The Mai-Kai (Fort Lauderdale, Fla.), Porco Lounge & Tiki Room (Cleveland), Remora (Salt Lake City), S.O.S. (Decatur, Ga.), Strong Water (Anaheim, Calif.), Swizzle (Dallas), Tiki Tiki Bang Bang (Cincinnati), Tiki Underground (Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio), Tonga Hut (Los Angeles), and VenTiki (Ventura, Calif.). Click here for links and more info on each in our preview story.
Cocktails were served at events throughout the four days and nights at many different venues, and most were complimentary with an event pass. Our observations indiate that villagers savored and appreciated the drinks nearly unanimously. A vast majority imbibed responsibly, without the hoarding and wasteful behavior that reared its head last year. Part of the improvement in overall flow and logistics can be credited to adjustments made by the bar team.
Our favorite sips
As in years past, we tried to taste as many new and different cocktails as our schedule would allow. I enjoy meeting and sampling as many of the visiting bars as possible to get a feel for what they serve in their towns across the country (and the world). It’s a unique opportunity to put your finger on the pulse of today’s Tiki cocktail scene over the course of one weekend.
Also, as usual, I tried to give every drink a quick analysis and rating so I could recap which were my overall favorites. It’s been awhile since I’ve done this on the blog, so I thought it might be fun to post the list here so others can compare notes and perhaps chime in below with a comment on their top tipples.
As noted above, I missed all of Friday’s daytime activities while leading tours at The Mai-Kai. But I tried to maximize the time I was at the Beachcomber by making the rounds of the bars whenever possible. My ratings include cocktails I enjoyed at bungalow parties, poolside pop-ups, the South Seas passholder lounge, the presentations I attended, plus cocktails served at The Mai-Kai and Sunday’s finale at Kaona Room.
Over the four days, sampled an estimated 41 different cocktails. Some could have been just a few sips of drinks shared with Mrs. Hurricane or others. A few were so good I had to go back for seconds. I managed to taste creations from all but five of the 20 guest bar teams.
Drinks were rated on my usual 1 to 5 scale. Also per usual, I didn’t award anything a perfect 5, but I also didn’t rate anything below 2. A total of 27 cocktails got 3.5 stars or higher (3 being average). That’s outstanding for any event in my book. Keep in mind that this is all subjective, and I’m sure others found other drinks to be their favorites. Also, it would be impossible to taste everything, so I’m sure I missed some great ones.
Seven drinks were rated 2 or 2.5, while another seven earned 3 stars. My notebook includes 12 with a 3.5 rating, very good but not quite at the same level as those below. Here are the 13 that earned 4 stars, listed in chronological order:
• VenTiki – Tropical Messiah (served Thursday in the South Seas Lounge). [See recipe below]
• Porco Lounge & Tiki Room – Pink Flamingos (Thursday, poolside pop-up).
• Remora – Return O’ Su Mac (Thursday, bungalow courtyard).
• The Mai-Kai – Barrel O’ Rum and Demerara Cocktail (served Friday during sneak preview tours).
• Remora – Mantis Ta’Groggin (Friday, poolside pop-up).
• Spike’s Breezeway / Rita’s Lost Weekend / Hi-Tide Recordings – The Sunken Cork (Friday, Jungle Voyage bungalow party).
• Swizzle – Storm Cloud (Friday, bungalow party).
• Dirty Dick – Golden Shower Sour (Saturday, poolside pop-up).
• Tonga Hut – Mezcal Tropical (Saturday, poolside pop-up).
• Kaona Room – Manoa Punch (Saturday, poolside pop-up).
• Kaona Room – Spike’s Grog and Missionary’s Downfall (Sunday, The Hukilau Hangover party in Miami)
While I originally gave two other cocktails 4 stars, I ended up awarding them 4.5 to separate them from the pack. What made the difference was merely situational. Sometimes when and where a cocktail is consumed makes it more special.
• Doc Parks – Once A Villager (served Saturday morning at The Mai-Kai from the Outside In with Will Anders). [See recipe below]. I was tempted to give the Demerara Cocktail bonus points because of where it was served (in The Mai-Kai’s new back service bar), but the samples were just too small. I was able to grab a few leftover bottles and serve a larger version over ice before the next day’s 10:30 a.m. presentation at the Beachcomber, but we quickly ran out after the first few rows. Not wanting the the large crowd that turned out to hear the South Florida artist to sit there empty-handed, I put in an urgent call to the Suffering Bastards for an additional cocktail. What arrived, pre-batched in a giant container, was perfect. Apparently left over from a previous serving, one of the northern California mixologist’s signature drinks was just what the doctor ordered.
• Bar Tiki – Ma’s Wake Up Call (served Sunday morning poolside during brunch). After the previous three nights of indulging, a hearty breakfast buffet was a nice way to recover. Even better was this drink, served modestly by Bar Tiki’s Devon Kitty Lopez in a poolside booth. It looked like a green smoothie with a simple orchid on top, but one look at the ingredients and I knew it was genius: Don Q Gold, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, coffee pandan simple syrup, Banana Real, Coco Real, lemon juice, and chocolate bitters. It was a flavor bonanza, perfectly balanced with the curacao and bitters mingling effortlessly with the coffee, coconut, banana, and rum notes. Cool and refreshing, Ma’s Wake Up Call was better than any iced coffee and a great way to kick start the final day.
Click here to see the recipe, as featured on Spike’s Breezeway Cocktail Hour …
Bonus recipes
TROPICAL MESSIAH
(VenTiki – Ventura, Calif.)
• 1 ounce lime juice
• 3/4 ounce cane syrup
• 1 ounce coconut rum
• 1 ounce spiced rum
• 1 ounce Demerara rum
• 1 teaspoon passion fruit syrup
• 1 teaspoon cream of coconut
• 3-4 dashes bitters (see ingredient notes)
Shake or pulse blend with crushed ice. Strain over more crushed ice in a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with flowers.
Sweet yet exotic flavors and a healthy dose of flavorful rums unite in a surprisingly cohesive cocktail. The bitters is the coup de grâce, tying it all together.
Ingredient notes: The recipe card handed out at The Hukilau calls for the passion fruit syrup and coconut creme to be a “drizzled on top” (it doesn’t specify before or after mixing). The cocktail had been batched and the syrups already included, so I’m going with a teaspoon (or barspoon) prior to mixing in this recipe. This seems like a safe way to ensure a cohesive drink. The card also specified “Chinese 5 spice bitters” to be splashed “all over the glass.” Again, we were served a completed drink with no bitters added on top, but in this case that might not be a bad idea. Dashing afterward would bring the bitters more to the forefront, which is necessary. Lacking that specific kind of bitters, we tried Peychaud’s and Bittermens Elemakule Tiki Bitters, and both worked fine.
Rum notes: I’m fairly sure The Hukilau used the new Planteray Cut & Dry coconut rum, which is excellent. You would be advised to do the same, or at least use something approaching it in quality (such as Koloa Kaua’i or SelvaRey). In Florida, Wicked Dolphin and Siesta Key also make natural coconut flavored rums with decent ABV. Similarly, choose a spiced rum carefully. VenTiki recommends Cihuatan Indigo 8, an 80-proof rum from El Salvador with heavy notes of vanilla and caramel. If you can’t find that brand, try to use something close to that ABV and flavor profile, such as Sailor Jerry, Koloa Kaua’i, or Captain Morgan Private Stock. VenTiki’s recipe calls for Old Monk XXX (from India) but suggests Demerara rum as a substitute. Hamilton 86, Lemon Hart 1804 and El Dorado 8 are fine options. The combination of all these rums brings a lot of sweetness to the party, but the cocktail shouldn’t be cloying.
ONCE A VILLAGER
(Doc Parks – San Francisco)
• 3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
• 2 ounces pineapple juice
• 1/2 ounce Passionola (sub passion fruit syrup)
• 1/4 ounce Doc’s Spices #1 (sub 2:1 demerara syrup and allspice dram)
• 1 teaspoon falernum
• 1/2 ounce lightly aged Barbados rum
• 1 ounce Demerara rum
• 1 ounce dark Jamaican overproof rum (Worthy Park 109)
• 1 barspoon of white Jamaican overproof rum
• 1 generous dash of absinthe
Mix with pebble ice on high for about 15 seconds. Dump all of the contents into a large snifter glass. Garnish with three pineapple balls and an orchid skewered to a Chinese hanging lantern garnish. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg.
Classic bold Tiki flavors burst out of this drink, which has a rich and addictive mouthfeel. The pineapple and spices take a leading role while the rums still pack a punch but don’t overwhelm.
The above recipe was featured (and demonstrated by Parks) on the Nov. 11, 2023, episode of Spike’s Breezeway Cocktail Hour. I can’t say for sure if this is the version served at The Hukilau, but it seems to be the most recent, and Parks was at the event to oversee its creation. It featured the new Passionola syrup that he helped create along with the authors of the new book, Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient.
The e-book was released in December, but the soft cover and hardback editions just recently became available online through Classic San Diego Books. The recipe in the book is similar, with a few key rum changes: It calls for 1 /1/2 ounces of Worthy Park 109, 1 ounce of aged Jamaican pot still rum, and 1 ounce of aged Barbados rum. That’s 3 1/2 ounces of rum vs. the 2 1/2 ounces (plus teaspoon of overproof) in the recipe above. I enjoy them both equally and give them the same high rating.
The version in the book is definitely rummier and less nuanced, packing a wallop in both flavor and ABV. The extra rum actually makes for an easier drinking cocktail, somehow tempering the spices. But it also comes with the requisite warning that it goes down way too easy and could be dangerous.
Ingredient notes: The only thing comparable to the new Passionola syrup is fresh, homemade passion fruit syrup. But even then, it won’t have the same complex flavors. Follow P/Fassionola on Instagram for info on the next release date.
Rum notes: Parks used The Real McCoy as his Barbados rum on Spike’s Breezeway, but there are many fine options, from Doorly’s to Mount Gay. See our Demerara rum suggestions in the previous recipe. Worthy Park 109, which is nominated for Best New Spirit or Cocktail Ingredient in the upcoming Spirited Awards at Tales of the Cocktail, is a unique product. The 100 percent pot-still rum forms the backbone of this drink with its full bodied yet not overpowering blend of aged and unaged distillates from the Worthy Park distillery. You could use the 114-proof Smith & Cross as a substitute if necessary, but I’d tamp down that rum’s bold funkiness with a half ounce of Appleton 8 or another lighter Jamaican rum (especially in the recipe found in the book). Finally, Parks enthusiastically endorses Rum Fire, but any of the other unaged 123-proof white Jamaican rums on the market would work just as well in the recipe above.
Okole maluna!
PHOTO GALLERY: The Hukilau 2024
The above list hits the major highlights. The schedule was full many other experiences to enjoy, including the Tiki Treasures Bazaar, rum tastings and meet-and-greets, book signings, ice-carving demonstrations, Sunday’s brunch, plus the evening after-party at Kaona Room in Miami.
Here are additional photos that capture some of those memories, plus more photos of the highlights from The Hukilau 2024 at the Beachcomber Resort. All photos by The Atomic Grog unless noted.
THE HUKILAU: MORE MEMORIES
The Hukilau 2024: Live coverage, photos and video from social media
For the 22nd time, Tiki enthusiasts enjoyed a long weekend full of surf and exotica music, expert symposiums, artists and vendors, world-class cocktails, and much more.
>>> SEE VIDEO, PHOTOS FROM SOCIAL MEDIA
Direct links: Pool party & bands | Symposiums & cocktails | Bungalow parties | Miscellaneous fun | Mai-Kai tours | Hangover party
Greggo Movie Rants blog
• Hukilau hosts tropical delights
• Miami’s Tiki speakeasy hosts Spike’s Hukilau hangover
MORE ON THE MAI-KAI
The Mai-Kai restoration work expands, sneak previews offered at The Hukilau (May 2024 update)
The $15 million project continues to engulf the 2.7-acre historic property as event passholders are treated to special tours of fully restored indoor guest areas.
EXCLUSIVE: The Mai-Kai Restoration Guide
Check out all the latest news, photos, video and deep details on the refurbishment and reopening of South Florida’s Polynesian Palace.
>>> COMPLETE COVERAGE FROM THE ATOMIC GROG
THE HUKILAU: 2024 PREVIEWS
The Hukilau 2024 preview: Symposiums, vendors and more announced for 22nd Tiki weekender June 6-9
The East Coast’s longest-running Polynesian Pop weekender features an all-star lineup of musical, mixological and scholarly talent for its annual gathering in South Florida.
The Hukilau 2024 attracts bands, bars and VIPs from around the globe, returns to The Mai-Kai
Check out the lineup of headlining bands, special guest presenters and 18 guest bars attending the 22nd Tiki weekender in South Florida.
THE HUKILAU: PAST COVERAGE
2023
The Hukilau highlights: Photos and memories from Tiki weekender
The 21st annual event featured four days of nonstop music, cocktails and education on modern and historic Polynesian Pop at the oceanfront Beachcomber Resort in South Florida.
MORE: The Hukilau 2023 live coverage, photos and video from social media
• Full 2023 coverage
2022
The Hukilau 2022: Daily recap, photos and video
The 20th Tiki weekender featured four days of live music, educational seminars, cocktails and rum tastings, plus lots more.
• The Mai-Kai’s new owner reveals renovation plans during The Hukilau
• Full 2022 coverage
PREVIOUS YEARS
• 2021: Daily recap, photos and video | Zombie party is final challenge | Full coverage
• 2020: Virtual events honor The Hukilau, help those in need
• 2019: 10 highlights and photos | Social media recap | Full coverage
• 2018 social media recap | More highlights
• 2017 daily recaps, news, photos and video | More highlights
• More recaps: 2016 | 2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2002-2008
MORE UPCOMING EVENTS
UPDATES: The Tiki Times: Exclusive events guide
Check the calendar for all of the major happenings around the world, from Tiki weekenders to rum festivals to marketplaces and music fests.