Imagine the Olympics without a closing ceremony. The Super Bowl without a halftime show. The equivalent in the Tiki world is The Hukilau without The Mai-Kai, which has been the unfortunate “new normal” amid the historic South Florida restaurant’s ongoing restoration project in the wake of its closing in late 2020 due to a severe back-of-house roof collapse.
Previous coverage: The Mai-Kai sneak preview at The Hukilau
• Mai-Kai from the Outside In with Will Anders
Story archive: Full coverage of The Mai-Kai refurbishment
For 17 years, the elaborately themed Polynesian palace was the centerpiece of the annual gathering of Tiki enthusiasts from around the world. It hosted a spectacular main event that filled the entire 600-capacity venue to the brim with Hukilau attendees for two performances of the Polynesian Islander Revue in the main dining rooms, plus bands such as Los Straitjackets and Tikiyaki Orchestra performing all night in the Molokai Bar and Tahiti dining room.
Related: The Mai-Kai through the eyes of The Hukilau villagers (2021)
There were also annual pre- and post-event parties, memorable symposiums, movie screenings, and lots more. Even when there was nothing scheduled, you couldn’t keep The Hukilau passholders, affectionately known as “villagers,” away from The Mai-Kai during its popular nightly happy hour in the bar.
For many villagers, the Molokai Bar is the space they remember the most, which made this year’s event even more special. Following a cocktail party held outside under the porte-cochère during the first post-pandemic Hukilau in September 2021, there have been no opportunities for guests to visit amid the massive reimagination of the 2.7-acre property in Oakland Park.
In 2024, the timing was right. Hukilau organizer Richard Oneslager (part of the investment team backing the $15 million in renovations) made good on his promise that villagers would return to The Mai-Kai this year. Multi-day passholders were given access to exclusive tours on June 7 that allowed them to get a peek inside many of the finished spaces, starting in the beloved Molokai. A full reopening is expected in late summer to early fall.
Large busses transported around 50 villagers at a time from The Hukilau headquarters at the oceanfront Beachcomber Resort in Pompano Beach. Throughout the day, four groups made the 5-mile pilgrimage, meaning several hundred got the chance to look behind the curtain and meet the manager and two of the creatives deeply immersed in the project.
The tours were led by 30-year general manager Kern Mattei, creative director “Typhoon Tommy” Allsmiller, artist Scott “Flounder” Scheidly, and this writer (Hurricane Hayward of The Atomic Grog). The groups were organized by another 30-year veteran, Mai-Kai sales and marketing director Pia Dahlquist, who was handling the planning and logistics for The Hukilau
Our previous story covered the highlights of the experience enjoyed by the villagers, which included complimentary cocktails and a rare chance to pick up Mai-Kai merchandise. In this story, we’ll go into more detail on exactly what we saw during the tours, along with additional exclusive photos of the Molokai Bar.
What villagers didn’t see was all the work that went into the preparations before they arrived. During the week before the Friday event, The Mai-Kai renovation crew (which also includes artist Tom Fowner) was joined by Hukilau volunteers who helped them get the tour sites cleaned up and looking shipshape.
Speaking of ships, when it came time to restore some of the scale models that adorn the Molokai Bar, Allsmiller turned to an expert close to home. His dad, Rich Allsmiller, briefly joined the crew to lend his expertise as a world-class model builder. (In April, the Allsmiller boys discussed this topic in a presentation on the iconic Nautilus from the film 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea at Tiki-a-Go-Go.)
Mattei and his team also had to plan the tour logistics well in advance, coordinating with Dahlquist. They came up with a flawless plan that allowed each of the four busloads to have roughly 2 hours at the restaurant, including smaller 20-minute guided tours.
There was a lot to see, and the villagers were eager to do as much as possible. Here’s an overview of what each busload experienced.
Arrival and porte-cochère
Due to the closure and pending reimagination of the main entrance, the busses brought the tour groups in through a rear entrance off Northeast 20th Avenue, which runs parallel to Federal Highway. The parking lot is mostly unpaved while crews continue to install underground utility lines, so guests had to use a special walkway and wear protective covers on their shoes.
When villagers arrived at the porte-cochère, they were greeted by Allsmiller and Scheidly, who showed off their work reimagining the space. We covered this work extensively in stories posted last year:
• Porte-cochère work accelerates (September)
• Restoration meets reimagination (November)
Allsmiller welcomed the day’s first busload and talked about how they covered the upper black metal truss pipes with molded epoxy putty to make them look like bamboo. He also designed a Marquesan pattern to cover the refurbished main wood beams, giving the area a more traditional Polynesian look.
One of the most stunning restorations is the lighted fiberglass panels above the front doors, which date back to the late 1950s. They had not been working for so long, “Kern didn’t even know they lit up,” Allsmiller said. “They were filthy dirty and had been cut into, because they couldn’t access the panels from the back side” to replace bulbs. Over the years, the panels were also damaged by hurricanes.
“We took them down, cleaned them up, and hand-painted them back to their former beautiful, non-faded glory,” Allsmiller said. The modern LED lighting perfectly brings them back to life. Lights were also added to the Marquesan beams, which along with hanging lamps and lanterns (plus the re-installation of the refurbished outrigger canoe) will give the area a great new look.
“This whole area is going to be absolutely stunning,” Allsmiller said. “I can’t wait.” He also talked about the synthetic thatch that covers the porte-cochère, touting its durability and likeness to natural thatch. It will last 20 years, as opposed to the 5 years real thatch lasts in Florida, he said, noting: “You can’t tell the difference.”
Allsmiller also discussed the plan to re-route the new entry driveway, which will be themed to look like a dirt road in Hawaii as guests bypass the porte-cochère and turn right at the historic banyan trees. Instead of the driveway, the shaded area outside the front doors will feature a new outdoor bar. [See previous coverage]
To make this plan happen, they had to remove the old Bora Bora Room, a building that was used for special events and a gift shop but was never a full-service dining room. It was damaged by Hurricane Wilma in 2005 and was used only for storage until its demolition in April 2023.
As a tribute, Allsmiller said, the new outdoor service area will be called the Bora Bora Bar.
Entry and Molokai Bar
The excitement among the villagers was evident when they finally set foot inside The Mai-Kai’s hallowed halls. They were greeted by volunteers from The Hukilau and received samples of the signature Barrel O’ Rum as they entered the Molokai Bar. As enticing as the drink was, it was not enough to distract anyone from wandering around the vintage lounge, gawking at the painstakingly restored decor.
The cameras came out immediately after it was announced that the bar was the only indoor area where photos would be allowed. All of the Molokai photos above and below were taken just before the tour groups arrived. The guests would spend most of their time here, waiting for the smaller groups of around a dozen people each to be called. They would also end up here after their tour while waiting to board the bus back to the Beachcomber.
The lounge appeared to be fully restored, with the exception of the back-of-house bar and kitchen, which is still awaiting equipment. The guests had a lot to look at. Those model ships and much of the nautical theming dates back to the 1970 reimagination of the bar. The designers of the last large expansion of the restaurant hit the mother lode when they bought set pieces that were used in the classic 1962 film Mutiny on the Bounty from the MGM prop department.
The tables and chairs, developed by early Mai-Kai artist Al Kocab, were set up and waiting. The signature lamps were scattered around the bar and tables with newly designed shades featuring Polynesian artwork. These replace the old shades featuring guest signatures.
• Previous coverage: Interior renovations shed light on The Mai-Kai’s historic lamp designs (November 2022)
The effect of water flowing down the windows, borrowed from Don the Beachcomber like many of the restaurant’s iconic elements, was up and running. (The plumbing is still a work in progress, so a makeshift system was set up during the tours. Also of note, many of the Tikis and artifacts cast in cement by artist Will Anders have yet to return to their spots outside the windows, but a few were on display.)
The Molokai Maiden, a replica ship’s masthead, was back in place in front of the windows at the far end of the bar to greet guests. Even though it was a sunny afternoon with light shining though the windows, the bar was still cool and dark. It was also seemingly perfect, the lighting and woodwork looking better than it ever has.
The credit for this goes to Mattei, Allsmiller and the crew that spent countless months repairing and restoring. The intent is to return the space to 1970, when it replaced the original Molokai Bar, circa 1958. During the restoration, Allsmiller uncovered wood panels from the original incarnation. Rather than remove or cover them completely, he left an “Easter egg” near the large window in the back. Look up and you’ll see a clear panel with the old wood beneath.
Allsmiller sourced all the wood he used in the repairs from what he believes is the same local company that provided materials for the 1970 build-out. He used the same tools and techniques to treat and age the beams and details, making it impossible to tell what is original and what was refurbished.
The hanging lamps were all either repaired or completely replicated, then returned to their original perches. New LED bulbs were added, carefully selected to provide the correct color and brightness. The floors were in good shape, but Mattei noted that they need to be cleaned and waxed before the reopening. Along with the furniture needing a touch-up, it was one of the few imperfections we could find inside the bar.
Outside the east-facing windows, a new outdoor deck is still under construction. The Tikis and torches will remain, but this new space will connect the Molokai to the Bora Bora Bar through the rear exit, eliminating the need for staff to use the front door.
The guest area of the Molokai is “L shaped,” with the lower portion running along the front of the building. Also known as the “poop deck,” this secluded space is reached via a bridge over a water feature that was also completely refurbished. Beyond the nautical themed bar is another small room, which was actually part of the old O’ahu dining room before the 1970 expansion changed the floor plan.
Members of the tours wandered back into this dark space, one of our favorites in the entire restaurant, noting its hybrid decor with the nautical mixing with thatch and bamboo similar to the dining rooms. From this vantage point, you can also get a peek into the Tiki garden behind the showroom stage through the windows, water flowing though the rock work and newly added faux flower arrangements by the Pleated Peacock, who has worked on Disneyland’s Enchanted Tiki Room.
Villagers would spot these gardens again as a backdrop to the tour’s first stop, the grand main showroom.
For more on the restoration of the Molokai Bar, check out our previous coverage:
• Work wraps up on lounge with vintage theatrical theme (April 2023)
Guided tours start in the showroom
Every 10 minutes or so, tour groups embarked on their adventure in The Mai-Kai’s main dining rooms that overlook the showroom stage. Making a left from the Molokai, they passed the maître d’ stand on the right and entered the oldest part of the building, dating back to the 1956 opening.
• Previous: Restaurant’s iconic centerpiece gets TLC (November 2023)
With all the tables removed from the Garden seating area, the groups gathered at the foot of the stage and marveled at the sight. For many, it was their first time at The Mai-Kai so there was a lot to take in, from the soaring 40-foot A-frame to all the surrounding eye candy. It was a feast for all the senses with the running water in the gardens behind the stage mingling with the Polynesian music piped in through hidden speakers.
The tour guides pointed out the surrounding, themed dining rooms: New Guinea on stage right, Hawaii on stage left, and Tonga in the rear. All have been restored by Allsmiller and Scheidly almost exactly as they were with new tambour panels, lauhala matting, bamboo trim, tapa cloth displays, plus many refurbished lamps. “As you go into each room, all the decor and artifacts come from those specific islands,” Mattei told the first group of the day.
The dining rooms are pretty much done except for finishing touches, Mattei said. Much of the vintage decor that adorned the walls was put into storage after the closing, but quite a few items were brought back in advance of The Hukilau. A large stache of Polynesian weapons arrived from storage and was already being placed.
• Previous: Guest artist flexes his artistic muscles (June 2023)
New Tiki birds take flight in Tonga Room (July 2023)
Dining rooms return to vintage glory (May 2023)
The stage that hosts the Polynesian Islander Revue dancers and musicians was completely refurbished, Mattei said. The floor was repaired and parts of the surrounding stylized woodwork re-carved by Allsmiller. While they were working under the stage, they also found some curious artifacts.
Mattei showed off the vintage carved railings, most likely sourced from Oceanic Arts in the 1960s. In those days, the stage was used for dinner seating before the nightly shows, which didn’t start until 10:30 p.m. At the push of a button, the rails would rise up on a pulley system from beneath the stage to provide a themed barrier around the diners.
At some point before Mattei arrived in the ’80s, this seating area was abandoned and the rails forgotten beneath the stage. After some 50 years, they were in bad shape, but Allsmiller was able to restore the wood. As a demonstration, he left one unfinished for the tour groups to see. An exclamation of “Oh, wow!” could be heard from the crowd. Added Mattei: “It shows how much work he can do bringing things back to life.”
Allsmiller and Scheidly were joined by Fowner in a high-wire act of refurbishing the lamps that hang in the upper reaches of the A-frame. Some needed minimal work, but others had to be completely rebuilt. “A lot of work went into it, and we’re very proud of what’s going on,” Mattei said. “We’re very excited to finally be open.”
• Previous: Artists showcase their work (May 2024)
Lamps & lights get detailed revamp (September 2023)
Back-of-house bar, kitchen and locker rooms
Work in progress prevented the tours from seeing the non-showroom dining rooms or the outdoor Tiki garden, but a rare treat awaited them in the rebuilt back-of-house. Entering through new doors to the left of the Tonga Room, villagers entered the new back bar, which was built from the ground up in what used to be the women’s locker room. The excitement level rose even more, and not just because the guests enjoyed a complimentary rum tasting and Demerara Cocktail samples.
Following the Don the Beachcomber tradition, The Mai-Kai has always employed behind-the-scenes service bars, both in the Molokai and the original space behind the main dining areas. It used to look just like the adjacent kitchen, all “stainless steel and white tile,” Mattei said. But when it came time to reimagine the area following the roof collapse, owner Bill Fuller had other ideas.
He wanted to upgrade the space so the bartenders had “a real Tiki experience,” Mattei said. It’s safe to say Allsmiller and his team accomplished this and more. The first tour oohed and aahed when they entered. As Mattei explained, they were given carte blanche on the design since the back-of-house isn’t designated historic like the front-of-house.
The new bar equipment is illuminated by new replica lamps created by the artists, along with custom tiles and woodwork on the walls and bar front. A shelf high on one wall awaits the return of The Mai-Kai’s vintage rum collection. Another new feature was unveiled: “We knocked a window through our gift shop, so you can … see our bartenders at work for the first time ever,” Mattei said.
The tour proceeded to what Mattei called the “temporary kitchen” and all the new equipment. A permanent kitchen is still to be built on the footprint of the damaged space, which remains a shell with no roof. The provisional kitchen was built in the undamaged area that used to house staff offices and other spaces.
Asked about the menu, he promised that they’ll keep “the favorites that people have loved for many years.” But he said they’re also going to take the opportunity to update the menu and make it “more modern.” They’re bringing in a new head chef with the leeway to be creative and try new things, Mattei said.
The next stops, the locker rooms for employees, are being designed in much the same way as the service bar. While still a work in progress, villagers could see the overall theming taking shape. The women’s room is themed to the ocean with blue custom tile and wood trim on the walls that features designs that look like waves. The men’s room is a fire/lava/volcano theme.
The hallways that lead to these rooms and the main office are also fully themed with thatch, bamboo and custom trim. The walls will feature photos and tributes to employees from the past 67 years. The idea is “to make employees excited to come to work,” Mattei said.
New and refurbished restrooms, gift shop
Emerging from “backstage,” the tours were directed to a brand new set piece created by Allsmiller and company. A space adjacent to the gift shop and restrooms has been transformed into a bathroom for guests with special needs. Featuring similar woodwork as the Molokai Bar and men’s restroom, this nautical alcove is more upscale and includes gold-leaf trim and gold fixtures. It’s meant to feel like the “captain’s quarters” in the back of a ship.
Next was a rare experience for the men in group: A look inside the even more lavish women’s room, which was a finalist in the America’s Best Restroom Awards in 2014. The space was completely refurbished, from the plumbing to the custom tiles and mirrors, to the woodwork.
• Previous: Molds reshape vintage decor (September 2023)
The men’s room was next, an extension of the Mutiny on the Bounty theming that was also restored to its original 1970s look and feel. The tour ended in the gift shop, a large space under the main A-frame that was originally the Bangkok dining room and follows the same Southeast Asian theme as the women’s restroom.
The floor and walls have been restored, but final touches that will give the Mai-Kai Trading Post an exciting new twist are still to come. The window into the back bar is just the beginning. Villagers were welcomed by manager Mattei, who satisfied their need for souvenirs and answered any final questions.
As we mingled in this vintage space, you could feel the history but also imagine the new and enhanced version of The Mai-Kai coming soon. They’re equally exciting and worth the wait.
Click on the links below to see more photos from the June 7 tours.
PREVIOUS ATOMIC GROG COVERAGE
The Mai-Kai sneak preview at The Hukilau
Hundreds of passholders got a special look inside The Molokai bar and other guest areas, plus a behind-the-scenes tour of the restoration and reimagination.
PHOTOS, EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE OF THE TOURS
More on The Mai-Kai sneak preview
• Photos and video from The Hukilau villagers
• Video: Tiki Hunting with Cacalito and Monserrat
Recent press coverage
• Lovingly restored treasure to open late summer (Florida Rambler)
• Inside the Mai-Kai Restaurant’s $15 million face-lift (Sun Sentinel)
• Famed Fort Lauderdale restaurant the Mai-Kai reopens this September (Miami New Times)
The Mai-Kai official sites and social media
MaiKai.com | Facebook | Instagram
E-mail alerts: Sign up to receive updates on the reopening
MORE ON THE MAI-KAI AT THE HUKILAU
Mai-Kai from the Outside In with Will Anders
The South Florida artist gave The Hukilau a fascinating, insightful presentation that took a look inside his career and his contributions to the historic restaurant over the past 20 years.
Preview & flashback: Inside (and outside) The Mai-Kai with Tiki carver Will Anders
AUDIO & PHOTOS: Walking tour with Will Anders, Kern Mattei, Hurricane Hayward in 2018
More Hukillau 2024 recaps
• The Atomic Grog’s photos, video and memories
• Live coverage, photos and video from social media
LATEST MAI-KAI NEWS FROM THE ATOMIC GROG
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Mai-Kai kitchen and bar take shape as team heads to Tiki-a-Go-Go
New equipment is now being installed in the rebuilt back-of-house at the historic South Florida restaurant.
Exterior reimagination up next as $15 million Mai-Kai project plows ahead
The historic South Florida restaurant prepares for an ambitious transformation of its sprawling 2.7-acre grounds.
EXCLUSIVE: The Mai-Kai Restoration Guide
Check out all the latest news, photos, video and deep details on the refurbishment and reopening of South Florida’s Polynesian Palace.
>>> COMPLETE COVERAGE FROM THE ATOMIC GROG
SPECIAL FEATURE
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Great Work! ya done done good!!!