It took 90 years for Trader Vic’s to make it to trendy South Beach, but the new Bamboo Room concept could be the right bar in the right place at the right time.
See more below
• The space | The cocktails | Updated menu, more
Exclusive: Q&A with Trader Vic’s CEO Rhett Rosen
Bonus cocktail recipe: Suffering Bastard
Tucked into the newly renovated 1920s era Esmé Hotel Miami Beach, the speakeasy-style craft cocktail bar is stylistically a throwback to the pre-Tiki, post-Prohibition early days of founder Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron.
In fact, the Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s, as it’s officially known, is a callback to a tropical space inside Bergeron’s original Hinky Dinks restaurant in Oakland, Calif., circa 1934. Soon after, the Trader Vic’s brand took the world by storm as a dynamic Polynesian restaurant and bar concept, expanding globally as interest in South Seas exoticism dominated the pop culture consciousness in the mid 20th century.
Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group remains a venerable force worldwide with 25 locations in 11 countries. To augment the flagship brand, new concepts are positioned to expand the Trader Vic’s name into previously untapped markets and remain relevant in the 21st century.
PREVIEW: Trader Vic’s launches new Bamboo Room concept in South Beach
In making upscale South Beach the first location of the new Bamboo Room concept, the hospitality group is returning to its roots as a luxury brand. This is a far cry from the previous branded bar and restaurant in Florida, the middle-of-the-road Trader Vic’s Island Bar & Grille in Sarasota (2010-2013).
Opening with a menu of just seven cocktails priced at $20-$25 would be risky just about anywhere else. But in one of the world’s top hospitality markets, it’s more like a Bam Adebayo slam dunk. One of the Miami Heat star’s predecessors, Chris Bosh, owned a lavish mansion just up the road that sold for a cool $38.5 million in 2022.
Let’s just hope potential guests have the willingness to seek it out, then appreciate the craft and care that went into both the space and its inventive cocktails. I will recommend it to anyone who lives in the area or visits for any reason, such as a show or event at the nearby Miami Beach Convention Center and Fillmore Miami Beach Theater.
Following is a full recap of my visit at the end of the opening weekend on Sunday, Sept. 15. As I sampled my way through the menu, I was privileged to meet and talk with two Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group executives who were in town for the opening. This story includes insights from both CEO Rhett Rosen and vice president of operations Raquel Rodriguez.
Beyond the Bamboo Room, I gained a new understanding of the Trader Vic’s brand, including exclusive details on an upcoming location planned for Hawaii, the first ever 100% company-approved outpost in the South Pacific. Also featured below is a Q&A with Rosen just before the opening.
Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s – 1438 Washington Ave. in the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach, (305) 809-8050. Open seven days from 5:30 p.m.
• BambooRoomMia.com | Instagram | Esméhotel.com
• TraderVics.com | Instagram | Facebook
The space: From 1920s gambling den to exotic cocktail lair
Esmé is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of South Beach at the intersection of Washington Avenue and Espanola Way (see map), a historic former artist colony that dates back to 1925. The cluster of buildings was transformed into a hotel in 2021 after a $40 million renovation by Infinity Hospitality Group. It quickly became a stylish destination listed in the Michelin Guide.
The hotel offers valet parking, or you can find multiple public garages within a short walking distance. I found a reasonable rate at a garage on 16th Street, a 5-minute walk away. Your GPS or rideshare may drop you off at the hotel’s valet stand and understated entry facade, where there is no mention of bars or restaurants within, but don’t fret.
Simply enter the lobby area and take in the neo-Spanish-Mediterranean vibe as you proceed along the red carpet through this small building and the double doors at the end of the hall. This will lead you into a quaint outdoor courtyard and building painted with striking green and white stripes. That’s your destination, as the small green sign near the door will confirm.
There’s apparently at least one other street entrance that escaped my notice, as seen in the video posted by the Tiki Hunting crew. It features a somewhat large Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s sign overhead and leads you through what appears to be a different lobby and entrance into the same courtyard. Note that the restrooms for the bar are in this space, along with some seating amid the tropical plants in the event there’s a wait to get in.
Once you enter, you’re whisked away to another era in the dark space with low lighting and vintage furniture. Even at 5:30 p.m. on a sunny summer day, the light coming through the many windows was muted by frosted glass and/or layers of curtains. It was nearly empty when I arrived at opening, allowing for a chance to admire the decor and take some photos.
However, the photos posted above and below don’t do the space justice. It’s hard to describe, but the ambience is flawless when you’re there in person. Tiki fanatics may be disappointed, but the sparse pre-Tiki theming does a great job of place-making.
According to lore, it was Al Capone’s gambling room at some point in its history. (The infamous mob boss was famously fond of Miami and owned a mansion there.) Much of the room is original, restored during the transition into a hotel. Before the Bamboo Room, the Esmé used it as a small dance club with a disco ball, but it seems much better suited to being a laid-back lounge.
The door is original, though it could easily pass as a portal into any exotic Trader Vic’s location worldwide. The space just seemed right when they were introduced to it, said Rosen, the CEO. A window in the shape of a polygon is framed by vintage green tile and rare rattan wallpaper that Trader Vic’s sourced from London, Rosen said.
The room just seemed right, Rosen said, noting that Trader Vic Bergeron had a flair for small spaces. They couldn’t do many modifications due to the historic nature of the building, but they tried to bring as much texture and depth as they could, Rosen said. The original red and white checkerboard floor was uncovered when the buildings were renovated by the hotel. It livens up the room, which is mostly dark woods with green accents.
The furniture and lamps are new, but they fit in perfectly. Couches and small tables are scattered around the room, which is said to have a capacity of 50, but that’s being generous. There appears to be seating for around 30 or 40 indoors, perhaps more outside.
The small bar takes up one corner of the room, its circular marble top and glass rack above adding a nice vintage touch. There are just four stools, giving you an intimate experience with your bartender on slow nights. The bar top and the wooden storage/display on the wall next to it were added by the hotel prior to the Bamboo Room, as were many of the lighting fixtures.
Rosen said they kept these elements because they fit the room, but his team did add a few Trader Vic’s touches. The display shelf next to the bar includes jade tile and some other exotic pieces from the Trader Vic’s collection. Walk outside the back door and you’ll find a primitive mask similar to those found at many Trader Vic’s restaurants staring back at you from the wall.
By virtue of its use as a nightclub, the space came with a nice sound system, Rosen said. Early on Sunday, the soundscape featured an eclectic mix that veered from mellow club music to traditional jazz to old pop songs. Among the tunes I noted were Sneakin’ Back In by Tom Scott and The L.A. Express (1974) and I’ll Be Around by the Spinners (1973).
A three-piece Latin jazz band set up in the corner and performed once guests started to arrive. Rosen said this will be a regular Sunday feature, along with other programming that will be added on some nights. He was very happy with the Sept. 13-14 opening weekend, noting that Friday and Saturday were both packed after a soft opening for friends earlier in the week.
South Beach is very much a late-night haunt, so I highly recommend arriving early if you want to enjoy the space without crowds. The bar opens at 5:30 and will typically shut down around 2, I was told. The hotel requires the bar to close before 3, so service will typically end by 2:30 at the latest.
The cocktails and bar: A creative and elevated tropical experience
Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s opened with a menu of just seven cocktails, all sophisticated new creations that push the envelope of what constitutes a tropical drink. The best description is “high-end craft cocktail bar with a vintage tropical bent.”
Several weeks after the opening, two pages of Trader Vic’s classics were added to the back of the menu, as detailed below, but the inventive originals are still the focus of the first 14 pages. These drinks are clearly aimed at the upscale South Beach market, though any discerning Tikiphile should enjoy them. We’ll return at some point to sample the new additions, but this review will concentrate on those heavy hitters that are unique to the Bamboo Room.
I tried five of the seven cocktails and enjoyed them all, rating them from above average to excellent. My favorites were the clarified Mai Tai, Edo Daiquiri, and El Polinesio. But Date in Dubai and The Park Lane weren’t far behind. I didn’t try Isle d’Abondance or It’s Not NOT a Pina Colada, but they’re at the top of the list for my next visit as both look delightful.
The cocktails are varied and vibrant. They’re all riffs on Trader Vic’s or classic cocktails, which is explained on the menu. We’ll detail that below, along with tasting notes. While not mentioned on the menu, most orders for standard drinks can also be accommodated.
Sitting at the small bar with Rosen at the start of service, I was able to engage the bartenders and get a good feel for the drinks. Note that the menu description doesn’t necessarily include all the ingredients in each. In chatting to my very helpful bartender, Ana Marie, I learned a few more additional details.
The two mixologists on duty have a very small work area, but they managed it nimbly. There’s just one other bartender on the staff, which is by design. Rosen said they want to keep the staff small to both give their team as many hours as possible, and also build rapport and loyalty with customers.
Here’s a breakdown of the menu, along with my comments and ratings based on the familiar 1-to-5 scale.
HINKY DINKS: A clarified Mai Tai named after Victor Bergeron’s pre-Trader Vic’s restaurant, where it all started in 1934. An outstanding cocktail, tied for my favorite of the night. Hinky Dinks is not rum-heavy, but you can taste all the subtle yet appropriate flavors. I’m not a huge fan of clarified cocktails, but this one works very well and is expertly crafted. They use clarified almond milk, creating a clean and crisp profile. It also includes Ron Zacapa Centenario rum, lime, orange curacao and rock candy syrup. It’s an elegant drink, but also addicting and very easy to consume several without blinking an eye. The only thing missing is a more traditional Jamaican rum in lieu of Zacapa (an often criticized rum from Guatemala). The drink arrives perfectly clear, which can be a shock when handed a Mai Tai. I suggest you simply close your eyes and enjoy. RATING: 4
EL POLINESIO: A take on the modern Old Cuban, which is itself a riff on Cuba’s Mojito. It’s inspired by the original Trader Vic’s in Havana (1958-1960). To me, it tastes like a craft cocktail mash-up of a Mojito and Cuba Libre, served up with much more depth of flavor. It features Brugal 1888 aged rum from the Dominican Republic, Trader Vic’s Grog Concentrate, mint syrup and lime juice. Not listed on the menu is the float of Prosecco on top, similar to the Old Cuban’s Champagne. El Polinesio is a surprisingly light drink, but there’s a subtle sweetness along with the rich Grog Concentrate that make it interesting. RATING: 3.5
THE PARK LANE: Named for the location of Trader Vic’s in London (1963-2022), this is a lighter spin on a Pina Colada (a drink made famous in song by Rupert Holmes, who was born in Cheshire, England). With its pineapple and coconut notes, it harkens back to that classic but also incorporates some traditional Trader Vic ingredients (passion fruit and London dry gin). The London theme is enhanced by the use of a tea-charged Tanqueray gin and the unique serving vessel (a teapot). Pineapple amaro and white chocolate bitters give it a crafty edge. The Park Lane is very floral with dominant gin and passion fruit notes. The tea also brings a distinctive flavor. Despite its appearance, the cocktail isn’t cloying or sweet. It’s clean and crisp with classic craft cocktail vibes. RATING: 3.5
EDO DAIQUIRI: An inventive version of a classic Trader Vic’s template that honors the long-running Tokyo restaurant (est. 1974) with multiple Japanese ingredients. It’s dry like a classic Daiquiri, but with flavors unlike any other. The standard lime and simple syrup are enhanced with sansho-soaked rum and matcha mango foam. Edo Daiquiri is very citrus forward with the foam adding a unique twist. (Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder made from finely powdered dried tea leaves. It has a slightly bitter, vegetal taste and a vibrant green color.) I also sampled the rum on its own, and it tasted like an unaged or lightly aged raw distillate with a light (close to 40%) ABV but clearly enhanced by the vibrant sansho (a spice that comes from a Japanese pepper plant, appreciated for its citrusy flavor and numbing effect).
RATING: 4
DATE IN DUBAI: This tribute to the Trader Vic’s in the United Arab Emirates (est. 1994) features date-infused Old Forrester Bourbon, date syrup, pistachio orgeat, lemon juice, and vegan aquafaba (Ms. Better’s Bitters Miraculous Foamer). The very rich date and bourbon flavors leap to the forefront. The rich texture could use some additional dilution, but otherwise this is an outstanding cocktail with big, bold flavors. Dates and pistachios are some of the biggest exports from Dubai. Rosen raved about the chocolate-covered dates he enjoys when visiting. RATING: 3.5
ISLE D’ABONDANCE: This distinctive cocktail served in a round goblet-style glass honors the Trader Vic’s in the Seychelles (est. 2016). The ingredients (rum, banana liqueur, avocado syrup, lime, spices, passion fruit) are definitely enticing us to return soon. Rodriguez, the VP of operations, said they didn’t have it for opening, but they hope to be able to import rum from the iconic Takamaka distillery in the Seychelles.
IT’S NOT NOT A PINA COLADA: True to its name, this teaser for the upcoming Hawaii outpost (see below) features coconut-washed Campari, pineapple amaro, and Ko Hana Rum. After the busy opening weekend, they ran out of the agricole-style Hawaiian rum, so we’ll have to wait for my next visit to try it. With the grassy rum and bitter notes from the Campari and amaro, this is definitely not sweet like a traditional Colada. It’s also served with a puff of toasted coconut smoke, which I did get a whiff of. It’s indeed nice and toasty, like a smoked coconut.
To create the original cocktails, Trader Vic’s turned to an in-house team in California that included a former longtime bartender from the flagship Emeryville location. The Edo Daiquiri was developed by the crew in Miami. Rosen hinted that if some of these cocktails prove to be successful, they could land on the worldwide Trader Vic’s menu.
While there’s no food available in the bar, the Esmé Hotel has multiple options. The bar was designed to pair with the nearby Sushi | Bar Miami Beach, which offers a curated Omakase experience but minimal cocktails. Guests are encouraged to grab a drink at Bamboo Room before and/or after dining.
Rosen hinted that they may experiment with happy hours and other cross promotions with the restaurant. He said he foresees some food in the Bamboo Room’s future, but the small space makes it tricky to roll out anything too ambitious.
The first goal was to perfect the cocktails, he said. By all accounts, his team quickly accomplished that.
NEW: Classic Tiki drinks in Miami, Trader Vic’s in Hawaii
An expanded menu featuring current and classic Trader Vic’s cocktails was activated less than two weeks after the opening. It features 14 cocktails, including the traditional Mai Tai, Suffering Bastard, Chi Chi, Navy Grog, Zombie, Bahia, Drunken Monkey, and Scorpion Bowl. Prices are at the South Beach level, ranging from $18 to $25. The best deal is the $60 bowl that serves four.
Unlike the seven originals, these will be made the way they are elsewhere, including the use of Trader Vic’s rums and syrups. I spotted mugs for at least four of these sitting on a shelf next to the bar on Sept. 15, ready to roll. There’s just enough for service, however. They won’t be sold at the bar, but they can easily be found online. Rodriguez hinted that a Bamboo Room mug is also in the works.
Rosen said the initial idea for the Bamboo Room concept was to launch in cities that already had a Trader Vic’s, allowing for a separate identity (and cocktails). But since Miami doesn’t have (and never had) a Trader Vic’s presence, having the classic drinks on the menu makes sense, he said.
Miami is also a tropical environment, so there’s a thirst for these kinds of drinks. Not to mention a large number of tourists who may demand the classics if they see a Trader Vic’s branded bar. It will be interesting to see where the future Bamboo Room bars pop up, and how the menus develop.
Speaking of future locations, Rodriguez said she’s excited about the new Trader Vic’s Outpost coming to Oakland International Airport next summer. The first of these more streamlined versions of the Trader Vic’s experience opened in the San Jose Mineta International Airport in 2021.
Rodriguez said the team in San Jose has done a very good job at maintaining the quality and consistency Trader Vic’s strives for. The vice president of operations knows the brand well. She worked her way up through the ranks, starting as server trainer in Los Angeles (2009-2011) and manager in Portland (2011), both locations no longer with us. She joined the corporate team in 2011, taking her current position in 2019.
Her responsibilities include overseeing all franchise openings and remodels. These have included such far-flung locales as India, Jordan, the United Arab Emirates, and Qatar. One of her favorites is the Trader Vic’s that opened in 2016 in the Seychelles, an archipelago in the Indian Ocean.
I had to ask Rodriguez about Hawaii, which is teased as coming in 2025 on the menu next to It’s Not NOT a Pina Colada. She revealed that they’re planning an Island Bar and Grill for an unnamed island, a more casual but still somewhat upscale indoor-outdoor venue attached to a hotel.
This location will have a smaller drink menu and won’t be as large as a traditional Trader Vic’s, she said. There will be around 10 drinks, including the original Mai Tai and the Maui Tai (Vic’s old Hawaiian Mai Tai), which they already serve in some restaurants.
It’s poised to be the first officially recognized Trader Vic’s in Hawaii. Bergeron had an early partnership that quickly dissolved, forcing him to sign over the Hawaii rights to his name, Rodriguez explained. His old partners continued to operate the restaurant as a Trader Vic’s, though Bergeron made it a point to note on early menus that he wasn’t affiliated with the Hawaiian restaurant. She said the brand is excited about finally planting an official Trader Vic’s flag in the 50th state.
Hawaii isn’t included on Wikipedia’s master list of past locations. A fascinating old thread on the Tiki Central message board takes a deep dive into the story of the “Trader Vic’s” that opened in 1940 in Honolulu. It moved to the International Marketplace in Waikiki in the late 1960s, lasting into the 1980s.
Q&A with Rhett Rosen, CEO of Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group
Rhett Rosen is very much a hands-on CEO, spending a good deal of time helping open the new Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s on South Beach. But there was also a personal connection. Rosen is a South Florida native and a doctoral graduate of the Shepard Broad Law Center at Nova Southeastern University in Davie. He still has family in the area.
He previously earned a degree in marketing and business administration from the University of Central Florida. Over the years, Rosen fell in love with the hospitality industry. He jumped at the chance to leave his role as director of sales in the spirits industry to join the Trader Vic’s team in 2016. His enthusiasm launched him up the corporate ladder, from executive vice president, to chief operating officer, to chief executive in 2019.
Rosen graciously answered the questions sent via email just prior to the opening:
Question: It’s exciting to see the return of the Trader Vic’s brand to Florida. I understand that the Bamboo Room was the name of a space at the original Trader Vic’s back when it was still known as Hinky Dinks. How did this idea come about of taking this bit of Trader Vic’s history and turning it into a modern concept?
Answer: For the past few years, we’ve been developing and launching new concepts under the Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group and connecting them to our rich history as much as possible. Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s was a natural fit for a lounge and cocktail experience, inspired by the way the Trader originally envisioned.
Q: Besides the name, how else are you trying to connect the Trader Vic’s legacy? I see several outstanding cocktails are planned, including the original Mai Tai (of course) along with a version called Hinky Dinks. Are there other connections to the past?
A: Our first menu is a journey through our history, both past and present. Each cocktail is inspired by the cities and countries where Trader Vic’s has had or still has a presence. These drinks allow us to showcase the flavors and experiences we’ve gathered along the way!
Q: How did you decide exactly what a modern version of a Trader Vic’s space would look and feel like? Was there a certain direction you aimed for with the Bamboo Room concept.
A: To be clear, this is not a Trader Vic’s, but the Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s. Our focus remains on two core pillars: delivering an exceptional guest experience and providing outstanding service. The Bamboo Room will uphold the same high standards as Trader Vic’s, just in a more intimate setting and unique format.
Q: Trader Vic’s has a long relationship with Hilton. Why did you choose to work with the Esmé Miami Beach on this project?
A: We have a long-standing relationship with Hilton, as well as nearly every major hotel brand worldwide. We select our locations with great care, regardless of the hotel. The moment you step into Esmé, you’re instantly transported from Miami to a European getaway. With Esmé recently receiving a prestigious Michelin Key, it’s clear that their standards of service and experience are perfectly in line with ours.
Q: Are there immediate plans to bring more Bamboo Room bars to other hotels in other markets? This seems to be a smaller concept that is easier to roll out.
A: ABSOLUTELY. Let’s leave it at that.
Q: Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group is a rebranding of what used to be known as Trader Vic’s Worldwide. Did that take place this year? There seems to be more new concepts listed on the tradervics.com website than ever before. Is there a concerted effort to expand in this historic year that recently featured the 90th anniversary celebration?
A: New concepts are definitely in the works, with some launching soon! I’d love to say it was all part of a strategic plan for this year, but the nature of the hospitality industry doesn’t allow for that level of predictability!
Q: Can we expect to see other concepts rolling out across the United States? I’ve heard great things about the Trader Vic’s Outpost in San Jose.
A: Yes for sure. We have another Outpost opening next year and a few more fun announcements coming very soon.
MORE ON THE BAMBOO ROOM, TRADER VIC’S
• Bamboo Room: Trader Vic’s Latest Venture Opens in South Beach (Greggo Movie Rants)
The Shift Drink Podcast: Interview with Eve Bergeron
PREVIOUS ATOMIC GROG COVERAGE
PREVIEW: Trader Vic’s launches new Bamboo Room concept in South Beach
The venerable brand returns to Florida for the first time in more than a decade with a new lounge that promises an intimate and sophisticated cocktail experience.
Bonus cocktail recipe
One of the classic Trader Vic’s cocktails that was recently added to the Bamboo Room menu is the Suffering Bastard, perhaps best known for its signature mug. I spotted an ample supply of mugs at Bamboo Room ready and waiting. Just be aware that they won’t be sold in the bar.
However, they’re readily available online at TraderVics.com. The 16-ounce mug is stocked in The Trading Post in both black and green finishes. There’s also a 2-ounce Mini Suffering Bastard mug in the same colors.
According to the website, the mug was originally called “Mai Tai Joe,” who “looks like he had a bit too much fun at last night’s luau.” Online resources date its origin to the 1960s. [See more photos] Vintage mugs can fetch more than $100.
The mug is so iconic, it has spurred an assortment of creative and whimsical modern versions, from the “Slurping Bastard” to the “Suffering Bob.” The latter was a special release during the COVID pandemic by San Francisco’s Smuggler’s Cove.
The cocktail itself is not quite as distinctive. It’s widely known to be simply the signature Trader Vic’s Mai Tai with the addition of more rum. There’s nothing wrong with that, but I always thought the recipe should be adjusted slightly to ensure it’s not out of balance.
Following is an attempt at a well-balanced and tasty Suffering Bastard. I hope you enjoy!
SUFFERING BASTARD
Trader Vic’s / Atomic Grog interpretation of classic recipe
• 2 ounces of dark Jamaican rum
• 1 ounce of lightly aged and filtered (aka white) rum
• 1 ounce of fresh lime juice
• 3/4 ounce orange curacao
• 3/4 ounce orgeat syrup
• 1/2 ounce rock candy syrup
Shake with crushed ice. Pour into a Suffering Bastard mug with more crushed ice. Our Bastard is embarrassingly naked, but garnishes could include a cucumber peel, spent lime shell, fresh mint, and a fruit stick (speared cherry and pineapple).
A supersized Mai Tai with supersized flavors and potency.
Ingredient notes
• Rums are important here. They should be neither too bold nor too mild. If you like over-the-top funky Jamaican rums, go for it. But I found a better balance using 1 ounce of the dark and rich Coruba with 1 ounce of the bold and strong Hamilton Pot Still Black. You would do fine with whatever blend you use in your favorite Mai Tai recipe. The white rum doesn’t need to be anything special since you’re just adding ABV and heft. Something above 80 proof, such as Hamilton White Stache, works well.
• Squeeze that lime fresh for a brighter drink. For the other ingredients, I just went with my current standard bottles behind the bar: Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao and Giffard’s orgeat. Feel free to use your personal favorites. Rock candy syrup is simply a 2-to-1 simple syrup using high-quality sugar, homemade if possible.
Background and mixing notes
It’s worth noting that Trader Vic’s Suffering Bastard is much different than the original created in the 1940s by globetrotting mid-century bartender Joe Scialom. Lime juice is the only shared ingredient as that unique cocktail also contains bourbon, gin, bitters, and ginger beer.
Also, the Suffering Bastard at South Florida’s Mai-Kai – which I reviewed and created a tribute recipe for – is not a riff on either version. It does play off of Vic’s concept, however. It’s believed to be simply a stronger version of the “Beachcomber style” Mai Tai served at the long-running Polynesian palace, created by legendary mixologist Mariano Licudine before he retired in 1979.
The Trader Vic’s Mai Tai is a deep rabbit hole that we’ll leave to experts like Kevin Crossman (The Search for the Ultimate Mai Tai), but Victor Bergeron’s classic template is ingrained in cocktail culture by now: 2 ounces Jamaican rum, 1 ounce lime juice, 1/2 ounce orange curacao, 1/2 ounce orgeat syrup, 1/4 ounce rock candy syrup.
The Suffering Bastard is featured in my copy of Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide (page 183, 1972 revised edition). It calls for 1 ounce of lime and 3 ounces of rum (1 ounce light Puerto Rican, 2 ounces St. James rhum), and just 1/2 ounce of Trader Vic Mai Tai mix replacing the curacao, orgeat and sugar syrup. We can only assume this is a highly concentrated mix that dilutes with shaking to the proper consistency. Also note that in this era, St. James rhum from Martinique was not the grassy agricole style we know today. It was described by the Bartender’s Guide as “heavy in body” and “similar to Jamaica rums.”
More recently, the Suffering Bastard appears in Trader Vic’s Tiki Party (2005), where it calls for 2 ounces of “dark” rum and 1 ounce of “silver” rum, just 1/2 ounce of lime juice, and 3 ounces of Trader Vic’s Mai Tai Mix. This is likely the current commercial version of the mix, which is not concentrated like the previous one that was used by Trader Vic’s bartenders and is now marketed as concentrate. Also, at this point, Trader Vic’s brand rums were likely in play.
Seeking some clarity, I found another version published in Gourmet magazine in 1971. It includes 1 ounce of lime and the same vague light/dark rum recommendations. However, it eschews the mix in favor of “a dash each” of orange-flavored liqueur, orgeat syrup, and rock candy syrup. I’m not sure how Gourmet measured dashes in 1971, but that’s clearly not enough of the liqueur and syrups.
The article only confirms what makes up the mix/concentrate, which I already knew. So I simply went back to the classic Mai Tai recipe to build my Suffering Bastard. Increasing the orange curacao, orgeat and rock candy syrup by 1/4 ounce each to match the increase in rum was simple and made logical sense. The resulting cocktail is not only logical, it’s delicious.
Okole maluna!
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY!
The Atomic Grog
• Trader Vic’s cocktail recipes | Mai Tai recipes
The Search for the Ultimate Mai Tai
• Kevin Crossman’s blog | Instagram | Facebook
RELATED COVERAGE FROM THE ATOMIC GROG
EXCLUSIVE: The Mai-Kai Restoration Guide
All the latest news, photos, video and deep details on the refurbishment and reopening of South Florida’s Polynesian Palace.
PHOTOS & VIDEO: Don the Beachcomber launches Morgan’s Cove speakeasy in Tampa
The revival of the iconic brand has entered a new chapter with the opening of the first Gantt Reserve Collection bar.
Beyond Esotico Miami: Kaona Room and Daniele Dalla Pola’s cocktail and rum adventures
After closing his flagship Miami bar, the Italian master mixologist hits the road while the Kaona Room keeps his cocktails flowing.
UPDATES: The Tiki Times: Exclusive events guide
Check the calendar for all of the major happenings around the world, from Tiki weekenders to rum festivals to marketplaces and music fests.