Iconic restaurants revived: Don the Beachcomber, Mai-Kai, Trader Vic’s are top Tiki stories of 2024

Iconic restaurants revived: Don the Beachcomber, Mai-Kai, Trader Vic's are top Tiki stories of 2024

Annual retrospectives always include some bittersweet news alongside the happy achievements, and 2024 was no different. We sadly said farewell to some legends as well as a few beloved watering holes. But there was much to celebrate as new Tiki establishments opened and events were launched. The good certainly overshadowed the bad at the top of the list. Three major storylines dominated the year in Tiki, and we’re happy to report that 2025 promises to be even better for three iconic names that are poised for their biggest years in recent history.
Related: The Year in Tiki 2024: A look back at the top events in photos, video
Bonus cocktail recipe: The Dirty Banana by Mike “Jetsetter” Jones

1. (TIE) CLASSIC TIKI REBORN: The Mai-Kai reopens after $20M restoration, Don the Beachcomber brand resurrected in Florida

The Mai-Kai and Don the Beachcomber

It was impossible to choose one of these two highly significant events as the top story of the year, so we’re declaring it a tie. The importance of both cannot be understated. When all is said and done, this may qualify as the top story of the decade. Imagine a future without the Mai-Kai, and Don the Beachcomber just a figure in books and movies.

In mid-2021, we were still mired in the pandemic, the Mai-Kai had been closed for nearly a year and had yet to find new owners, and we had no clue that the historic Don the Beachcomber name had been acquired by a little-known restaurant group from Tampa.

By September of that year, the Mai-Kai was sold two a new ownership group, becoming the No. 2 story of the year. In 2022, the historic South Florida restaurant was in the midst of a multi-year, multimillion-dollar reimagination that grabbed the No. 5 slot. By 2023, Don the Beachcomber grabbed headlines (and the No. 2 top story) with an ambitious announcement of a revival of the brand by 23 Restaurant Services. The massive Mai-Kai renovation efforts, which we documented in great detail, was No. 4.

LIVE COVERAGE & REVIEW: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success
Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach was the first location to open as part of a planned national rollout of the iconic brand. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)

Which brings us to 2024, when both stories deservedly bolted to the top slot. Don the Beachcomber made news first, opening its first new restaurant Feb. 23 in Madeira Beach on Florida’s southern Gulf Coast. The full-service restaurant, located on the ground floor of the Cambria Hotel just blocks from the beach, was designed by Daniel “Tiki Diablo” Gallardo and a crew of artists and craftspeople. The cocktails are in the highly capable hands of beverage director Marie King.
Previous coverage: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success

In April, the team behind the ambitious brand re-launch took the stage at Tiki-a-Go-Go in Orlando to offer a sneak preview of new locations planned for Florida, plus a new “brand within a brand” called the Gantt Reserve Collection from Don the Beachcomber. These smaller, speakeasy-style venues will allow the company to more swiftly expand. While the next large restaurant – a flagship location just north of Disney World in Central Florida – isn’t expected until at least 2025, the company was able to turn the key on its first cocktail-centric bar just three months later.
Previous coverage: Don the Beachcomber announces new bar concept, upcoming locations in Florida

PHOTOS & VIDEO: Don the Beachcomber launches Morgan's Cove speakeasy in Tampa
Morgan’s Cove in Tampa is the first Gantt Reserve Collection bar from Don the Beachcomber. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)

Morgan’s Cove, featuring a whimsical seafaring design executed perfectly by Gallardo and his team, swung open its secret door on July 18 on downtown Tampa’s Morgan Street. The city’s long history of pirate lore makes the theme a perfect fit. King rose to the challenge with a menu of elevated classic cocktails and unique takes on Donn Beach’s vision.
Previous coverage: Don the Beachcomber launches Morgan’s Cove speakeasy in Tampa

All that momentum came to a crashing halt in September. Hurricane Helene slammed the Gulf Coast, causing extensive damage to many homes and businesses, including Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach. The restaurant has not yet reopened, but an official statement in December promised a return in early 2025. We look forward to the reopening, along with other new Don the Beachcomber venues coming soon.

Don the Beachcomber restaurants: Official website | Online store | Facebook | Instagram | Morgan’s Cove on Instagram

Florida Tiki weathers an unwelcome 2024 hurricane season, poised for promising 2025
Previous coverage: Florida Tiki weathers an unwelcome 2024 hurricane season, poised for promising 2025

Meanwhile on Florida’s southeast coast just north of Fort Lauderdale, work was progressing on the Mai-Kai, built in 1956 and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2014. It closed in late October 2020 after a roof collapse took out the 1970s-era kitchen and revealed an aging structure in need of a lot of TLC. And, it turns out, even more money and time than projected. Luckily, the new ownership group led by historic preservationist Bill Fuller of Miami’s Barlington Group has deep pockets and even more patience.

Far from your typical restaurant restoration, this project demanded a high level of expertise. Creative director “Typhoon Tommy” Allsmiller rose to the challenge, joined by a team of artists and longtime manager Kern Mattei. The excitement level started to build in June, when guests of The Hukilau received exclusive tours of some of the newly restored areas, including the Molokai Bar and showroom.
Previous coverage: Inside the Molokai Bar and tour of the Mai-Kai restoration

The Mai-Kai showroom comes back to life during the grand reopening on Nov. 21. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
The Mai-Kai showroom comes back to life during the grand reopening on Nov. 21. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

With a fall reopening in sight, hiring began in August, including performers for a rebooted version of the Polynesian Islander Revue, the oldest continually-running authentic South Seas stage show in the United States (including Hawaii). In September, Cory Starr (formerly of Tiki Tatsu-Ya in Austin and Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago) was named beverage director, overseeing one of Tiki’s most storied bar programs.
Previous coverage: Mai-Kai welcomes Cory Starr as new chief mixologist

Even the parking lot received a creative makeover. Designed by the architects at Orlando’s Perry-Becker Design, whose resume includes Disney’s Polynesian Village Resort, the arrival experience became totally immersive with new waterfalls, lush foliage and a simulated volcanic caldera. The old porte-cochère was reimagined into the Bora Bora Bar with outdoor seating and another layer of story-telling for guests to enjoy.

The big day finally arrived on Nov. 15, when the bars reopened for a series of sneak preview events. On Nov. 21, a special grand reopening ceremony featured show performers and local politicians, who joined Fuller in officially opening the doors and enjoying the debut performance of the new Polynesian review, led by cultural arts & entertainment director Teuruhei Kalaniu’i Buchin.
Previous coverage: Latest news and exclusive coverage of the Mai-Kai reopening

The Mai-Kai's outdoor Tiki garden reopened for the 68th anniversary on Dec. 28. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
The Mai-Kai’s outdoor Tiki garden reopened for the 68th anniversary on Dec. 28. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

The Mai-Kai has been open every day since regular service began Nov. 26, including a 68th anniversary celebration on Dec. 28. The building and grounds look fantastic, but the $20 million project is far from complete. The expansive Tiki garden reopened for the anniversary, and several rear dining rooms are still being renovated. Allsmiller has more tricks up his sleeve as his work continues in 2025, but don’t hesitate to make a pilgrimage to Tiki’s mecca, a Polynesian paradise that defied the odds and returned bigger and better than ever in 2024.

More Atomic Grog coverage
Is it 1956 or 2024? Forward-thinking Mai-Kai menus sport retro flair
Answers to frequently asked questions about the grand reopening

The Mai-Kai: Official website | Facebook page | Instagram
Facebook group: Friends of the Mai-Kai

Mai-Kai Restoration & Reopening
EXCLUSIVE: Mai-Kai Restoration & Reopening Guide
Check out all past news, photos, video and deep details on the refurbishment and resurrection of the Polynesian palace.

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2. THE DONN OF TIKI: Fans flock to premieres, boost film’s profile

The Donn of Tiki

The godfather of Tiki, Don the Beachcomber (aka Donn Beach), finally got his due in 2024 with the long-awaited public debut of The Donn of Tiki on the film festival circuit in April. By the end of the year, it had made the rounds at more than a half-dozen events and garnered numerous awards. In September, Kickstarter contributors were able to screen the movie at home.

Continue reading “Iconic restaurants revived: Don the Beachcomber, Mai-Kai, Trader Vic’s are top Tiki stories of 2024”

Minimalist Tiki

Cocktail recipe: Set sail for a potent holiday adventure with the Atomic Navy Nog

Cocktail recipe: Set sail for a potent holiday adventure with the Atomic Navy Nog

There’s nothing more ubiquitous during the Christmas season than a traditional eggnog, whether its a non-alcoholic version for the whole family or a boozy variation featuring whiskey, rum and/or brandy. It’s hard to mess up this holiday standard if you know what you’re doing, so we saw no need to weigh in with a unique recipe of our own. Until now.

Jeff "Beachbum" Berry serves up a tasty nog at Sippin' Santa. (Official photo)
Jeff “Beachbum” Berry serves up a tasty nog at Sippin’ Santa. (Official photo)

Over the past decade or so, we’ve tasted some excellent examples of modern nogs at the annual Miracle and Sippin’ Santa pop-up bars. In general, the craft cocktail revival has raised the bar on this formerly cringey classic that was more often served out of a carton.

Esteemed author and barkeep Jeffrey Morgenthaler is widely credited with championing eggnog with a craft cocktail slant, leading to a plethora of modern recipes. The recent explosion of local Christmas pop-ups that followed in Miracle’s wake has made the options even more plentiful.

But even in its most elevated form, eggnog is not typically a showcase for bold and aggressive rums. Kevin Crossman’s Ultimate Egg Nog is solid, but it splits the base with bourbon. Inspired by Derek Cole’s Tiki Eggnog, updated this year on his Make and Drink channel on YouTube, I sought to lean into the Tiki spices but also bring to the table the most flavor-packed (and potent) rum(s) in a classic eggnog format.

Hamilton Beachbum Berry's Navy Grog Blend (114 proof) and Planteray Mister Fogg Navy Rum (111.4 proof) are robust and flavorful mixing rums. (Official photos)
Hamilton Beachbum Berry’s Navy Grog Blend (114 proof) and Planteray Mister Fogg Navy Rum (111.4 proof) are robust and flavorful mixing rums. (Official photos)

The result is the Atomic Navy Nog, featuring not one but two Navy-style rums that have been calling my name since their release. Both Beachbum Berry’s Navy Grog Blend from Hamilton Rum and Mister Fogg Navy Rum from Planteray are outstanding mixing rums that deserve a lot more use beyond the namesake Navy Grog.

You could easily use one bottle or the other in this recipe if that’s all you have, but the 50/50 blend is surprisingly not too muddled or muted. In the Don the Beachcomber tradition, two rums are indeed better than one, even if they already are complex three- and four-country blends. To complete the link back to Donn Beach, I tried to employ some of his other favorite ingredients (cinnamon syrup, Gardenia Mix) to give the nog some depth of flavor beyond the rum.

The result, I hope, is a spicy and rummy eggnog that retains its classic form but gives rum and Tiki aficionados an extra special treat.

Continue reading “Cocktail recipe: Set sail for a potent holiday adventure with the Atomic Navy Nog”

The Mai-Kai welcomes Cory Starr as new chief mixologist in advance of grand reopening

The Mai-Kai welcomes Cory Starr as new chief mixologist in advance of grand reopening

Updated Dec. 5, 2024

The revered cocktail program at the Mai-Kai is in experienced and enthusiastic hands as the historic restaurant prepares for its grand reopening in November. The new beverage director and head bartender is Cory Starr, most recently general manager and beverage director at the acclaimed Tiki Tatsu-Ya in Austin, and before that a key member of the team at Three Dots and a Dash in Chicago.

Cory Starr, the Mai-Kai's new beverage director and head bartender, in the restored Molokai Bar in October 2024. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
Cory Starr, the Mai-Kai’s new beverage director and head bartender, in the restored Molokai Bar in October 2024. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

Jump to more below
Take 5: Q&A with Cory Starr
Bonus cocktail recipe: One Way Ticket

While Starr is used to creating unique offerings at his previous gigs, he’s equally excited about the challenge that lies ahead. “I feel a great responsibility for maintaining the standards of the past,” he said in an interview with The Atomic Grog just after his arrival.

Starr worked at Tiki Tatsu-Ya from 2019 until September 2023, creating the cocktail program from the ground-up before the spectacularly immersive restaurant opened in September 2021. Prior to that, he bartended at the Spirited Award-winning Three Dots and a Dash from 2015 to 2019, often joining beverage director Kevin Beary at events across the country.

The Arizona native cut his teeth as a tropical bartender at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai on Hawaii’s Kona Coast from 2011 to 2015. Starr was also invited to compete twice (2018 and 2019) in the prestigious Don the Beachcomber Mai Tai Festival at the Royal Kona Resort (finishing second and third). His time in Hawaii cemented is love for Tiki culture and launched him on a trajectory that has taken him to one of the most legendary Polynesian restaurants of the mid-20th century.

Cory Starr behind the bar at Tiki Tatsu-Ya in Austin, September 2023. (Photo: RaeAnn Serra / Starchefs.com)
Cory Starr behind the bar at Tiki Tatsu-Ya in Austin, September 2023. (Photo: RaeAnn Serra / Starchefs.com)

More Atomic Grog coverage
Mai-Kai timeline, 1956-2024: Iconic restaurant marks 68 years of Polynesian Pop history NEW
Is it 1956 or 2024? Forward-thinking Mai-Kai menus sport retro flair
Mai-Kai grand reopening 2024: Answers to frequently asked questions
UPDATES: Latest news and exclusive coverage of the Mai-Kai reopening in 2024
Mai-Kai Restoration & Reopening: Full story and photo archive

At 40, Starr brings to the Mai-Kai a youthful energy, but also vast experience with high-level and high-volume cocktail programs. This will all serve him well in re-establishing the storied bar program begun by Don the Beachcomber alum Mariano Licudine in 1956. Most of the restaurant’s historic cocktails remain the same as they were when the “Houdini of the Liquids” retired in 1979.

“Stepping into this role is unlike anything I have done before,” Starr said. “While Tiki cocktails have so much history tied to them already, the Mai Kai drinks are legendary and my job here is more preserving history and bridging the gap from the Mai Kai that we all adore to the new era of the Mai Kai.”

Continue reading “The Mai-Kai welcomes Cory Starr as new chief mixologist in advance of grand reopening”

Preview and recipes: Book reveals long-lost secrets and stories of P/Fassionola

Preview and recipes: Book reveals long-lost secrets and stories of P/Fassionola

A much-anticipated book dedicated to unraveling the enigmatic history of “the taste thrill of the century” has been welcomed with open arms by the Tiki community and beyond, quenching our insatiable thirst for esoteric topics. Not to mention tasty tropical cocktails.

The softcover and hardback editions of "Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails' Most Mysterious Ingredient" during the special April pre-release at Tiki-a-Go-Go in Orlando. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
The softcover and hardback editions of “Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient” during the special April pre-release at Tiki-a-Go-Go in Orlando. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

So what is this taste thrill that caused so much intrigue? Rum? Bitters? Pineapple or some other exotic tropical fruit? Not quite, but close. Of course, we’re talking about Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient, researched and written by Gregorio Pantoja and Martin S. Lindsay.

More below: Read Hurricane Hayward’s foreword to the book
New Passionola syrup follows historic recipe

The authors not only dug up the complete story of a unique product that was in danger of becoming a footnote in 20th century mixology, they also uncovered the original “P/Fassionola” formula from the 1930s and have begun releasing it to the public with the help of noted mixologist Daniel “Doc” Parks.

Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails' Most Mysterious Ingredient

The 288-page book, self-published by the authors, is loaded with historic photos and images plus more than 100 recipes. Among these are many unpublished classics as well as new drinks by some of today’s top cocktail creators. This includes an exclusive new tribute to a Mai-Kai cocktail that had previously not been posted on The Atomic Grog blog.

After a late 2023 digital release, hard copies became available in late spring and can be purchased at Shop.ClassicSanDiego.com in both softcover and limited-edition hardback signed by the authors and Parks.

Bonus cocktail recipes below
Mona Punch (Don the Beachcomber)
151 Tribute Swizzle No. 5 (Vatos Who Tiki)
Mission Valley Daiquiri (The Atomic Grog) NEW
See also: Sidewinder’s Fang (Mai-Kai tribute) | Once A Villager (Doc Parks)

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We’ll get into more details below, but first let’s set the stage with the foreword I contributed to the book.

Continue reading “Preview and recipes: Book reveals long-lost secrets and stories of P/Fassionola”

The Hukilau highlights: Photos and memories from 2024 Tiki weekender in South Florida

The Hukilau highlights: Photos and memories from 2023 Tiki weekender in South Florida

You know the summer event season is underway when The Hukilau blows through South Florida in early June, serving up a whirlwind weekend of live music, expert symposiums, pool parties, vendors, and cocktails crafted by notable bartenders from around the world. As a bonus this year, hundreds of Hukilau passholders were invited to attend an event inside freshly renovated spaces of the historic Mai-Kai restaurant for the first time in five years.
RELATED: The Hukilau 2024 live coverage, photos and video from social media

A power trio of authors at The Hukilau 2024 (from left): Matt Pietrek, David Wondrich and Jeff "Beachbum" Berry. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 8, 2024)
A power trio of authors at The Hukilau 2024 (from left): Matt Pietrek, David Wondrich and Jeff “Beachbum” Berry. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 8, 2024)

The Hukilau 2024 – June 6-9 at the Beachcomber Resort & Club in Pompano Beach. Featuring live music (Messer Chups, Surfer Joe, L’Exotighost, Slowey and the Boats, Lords of Atlantis, The Intoxicators, The Disasternauts, The Mermers, Skinny Jimmy Stingray), symposiums and classes (Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Ian “Rum Ambassador” Burrell, David Wondrich, Matt Pietrek, Daniele Dalla Pola, Spike Marble, Marie King, Lucky Munro), 20+ guest cocktail bars, pool parties, Tiki Treasures Bazaar, plus more.
• The Hukilau on social media: Instagram | Facebook page and group

The location is also hard to beat. While South Florida’s heat and humidity can be stifling at this time of year, the location of a boutique hotel directly on the Atlantic Ocean with its gentle breezes and beachfront access makes up for that. The Hukilau takes over the entire 140-room Beachcomber Resort for three nights and parts of four days, meaning the immersion in a tropical paradise is complete. Attendees spill over into other beachfront hotels, and classes were also held this year in a nearby event space.

After more than 20 years (this was the 21st live event in South Florida and 22nd overall), event attendees (known as “villagers”) know what to expect with the weather. Sporadic showers are welcome to cool things off, but this year was even hotter than usual, averaging around 90 in the day and 78 in the evening. Many activities are held outdoors, which can be a challenge.

The Hukilau's Saturday's pool party at the Beachcomber Resort. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 8, 2024)
The Hukilau’s Saturday’s pool party at the Beachcomber Resort. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 8, 2024)

But the resort’s pools and shaded areas, not to mention all the cool beverages, gave guests ample ways to beat the heat. Other than an early Saturday storm, the event was free of rain and nobody seemed to mind the challenges Mother Nature presented. Like Tiki itself, the event was the perfect escape from the daily grind.

The Atomic Grog’s photos, video and highlights

More below: Presentations & classes
Beachbum Berry & David Wondrich | Matt Pietrek | Will Anders
Photos: Exclusive tours of The Mai-Kai | More Hukilau photos
Bars & cocktails | Bonus recipes: Tropical Messiah | Once A Villager

THE MUSIC

As detailed in our full preview in March, the lineup of bands performing this year had an unprecedented global flair. Surf and exotica groups dominated, and musicians hailing from Russia, Spain, Italy and around the United States made the trek to perform on the main poolside stage as well as several other spots around the Beachcomber property.

The performances lived up to the hype and anticipation with all the bands delivering top-notch sets, from the Mermers on Thursday night to the Saturday night headlining hijinx of The Disasternauts. Saturday’s early afternoon rain slowed the momentum but couldn’t stop the party. Slowey and the Boats shifted to an evening set under the courtyard tent, where they also played Friday night to give the bungalow parties a perfect laid-back soundtrack. They also performed poolside on Friday afternoon.

Russia's Messer Chups enjoy their debut set at The Hukilau on Friday night. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 7, 2024)
Russia’s Messer Chups enjoy their debut set at The Hukilau on Friday night. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 7, 2024)

Messer Chups, L’Exotighost and Lords of Atlantis all played The Hukilau for the first time, while Surfer Joe made his second appearance. They peformed on the main stage both Friday and Saturday, allowing villagers more opportunity to catch these rare treats. Hukilau stalwarts The Intoxicators also played twice, headlining Thursday night under the South Tiki Hut and returning for a blistering afternoon set poolside on Saturday. And don’t forget local guitar slinger Skinny Jimmy Stingray, who kicked off Saturday’s party on the main stage.

Below you’ll find photos of all the bands presented in chronological order. We also captured six of the nine bands on video. You can watch the full song clips below, or click here and bookmark our Hukilau 2024 playlist on YouTube for future enjoyment.

Returning to The Hukilau seven years after their 2017 debut, The Mermers bought tons of talent and creativity to their set of instrumental alternative surf and exotica. The foursome from Gainesville, Fla., has two albums to its credit and performs extensively across the region.

The Mermers open The Hukilau's Thursday night festivities under the South Tiki Hut. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 6, 2024)
The Mermers open The Hukilau’s Thursday night festivities under the South Tiki Hut. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 6, 2024)

Hailing from Madrid, Spain, L’Exotighost brought a new spin on classic exotica to The Hukilau with a distinctive style that employed guitar, drums and bass ukulele, plus vibraphone, theremin and other exotic sounds. The four-piece band’s poolside sets Friday and Saturday featured songs from its latest album, Kamongo (2022), available on Hi-Tide Recordings.

L'Exotighost performs Friday afternoon on The Hukilau's main stage. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 7, 2024)
L’Exotighost performs Friday afternoon on The Hukilau’s main stage. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 7, 2024)

Continue reading “The Hukilau highlights: Photos and memories from 2024 Tiki weekender in South Florida”

Beyond Esotico Miami: Kaona Room and Daniele Dalla Pola’s cocktail and rum adventures

Beyond Esotico Miami: Kaona Room and Daniele Dalla Pola's cocktail and rum adventures

The tropical drinks world became a less exciting and flamboyant place earlier this month when Italian master mixologist Daniele Dalla Pola closed up shop at Esotico Miami after nearly 5 years of crowd-pleasing cocktails and cuisine.

Daniele Dalla Pola puts on a show while making his signature cocktails during the final night at Esotico Miami. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / March 2, 2024)
Daniele Dalla Pola puts on a show while making his signature cocktails during the final night at Esotico Miami. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / March 2, 2024)

But his influence and creative flair will live on at the adjacent Kaona Room, which will continue to be operated by his son while Dalla Pola sets off on his next adventure. The remaining partners will transform the Esotico space into a new bar and restaurant concept, but the vintage Tiki-themed speakeasy remains open and serving some of the best exotic cocktails (and food) in Miami.

Dalla Pola’s exit was sudden but not unexpected under the circumstances. Legal issues with his work visa make it necessary for him to leave the United States and return to his native Italy, among other destinations, in the coming months. He eventually plans to return to help run the Kaona Room with Billy Dalla Pola when he can legally do so. But in the meantime, he has multiple projects in the works.

Full coverage below: Closing night at Esotico
The Kaona Room keeps torch burning | Dalla Pola’s further adventures
Photos, video: Esotico Miami memories
Cocktail recipe: Esotico Rum Cup

Esotico (left) has closed its doors but its secret speakeasy, the Kaona Room, will continue with its intimate and authentically Tiki vibe and decor. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / March 2, 2024)
Esotico (left) has closed its doors but its secret speakeasy, the Kaona Room, will continue with its intimate and authentically Tiki vibe and decor. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / March 2, 2024)

Esotico opened on Aug. 15, 2019, a joint venture between Dalla Pola and Miami’s Graspa Group. At 3,400 square feet, it took up a huge space in the ground floor of the Canvas Condominiums in downtown’s Arts & Entertainment District. [See opening photos]

It closed March 2, a little more than 6 months shy of its 5-year mark. Dalla Pola posted a heartfelt farewell on his Instagram page:

Aloha! Closing the bar today and writing these words is not easy, but this is a step I take because it’s time for a change, time to refresh, time to rethink, and to build something new. I step out from my project Esotico Miami which will move on under a new concept led by my trusted partners, Graspa Group.

Although I will leave Miami for some time, my son Billy Dalla Pola, will continue what I’ve started at The Kaona Room. … As I move forward, I’ll be excited to announce something new, hopefully very soon. Stay tropical!

Daniele Dalla Pola didn't waste any time hitting the road after the closing of Esotico Miami
Daniele Dalla Pola didn’t waste any time hitting the road after the closing of Esotico Miami.

Esotico was the next evolutionary step for the acclaimed bar owner, who made his name in the drinks world with Nu Lounge Bar in Bologna (in which he remains a partner). Dalla Pola first came to the United States more than 25 years ago, and his son was born in Miami in 1999.

Dalla Pola represented rum giant Bacardi while bartending in Miami before establishing himself as a force on the worldwide beverage scene. His presentations on Tiki cocktails have always been well received. Besides the bar in Italy, he owns a piece of the Alamea brand of liquors, which was founded in 2016 and is now distributed in 14 countries.

His career now comes full circle as he once again hits the road to attend events and spread the gospel about rum, cocktails and Tiki culture. His first stop after leaving Miami was Shanghai for the Asian Bar Awards, followed by more appearances across China sponsored by Bacardi.

We’ll detail more of his upcoming plans below, including a new signature rum and a cocktail book. But first, here’s what’s been happening in Miami.

Continue reading “Beyond Esotico Miami: Kaona Room and Daniele Dalla Pola’s cocktail and rum adventures”

REVIEW: El Dorado’s new High Ester Blend could be a mixologist’s secret weapon

El Dorado's new High Ester Blend could be a mixologist's secret weapon

I’m honored to have been chosen as a “rum influencer” of high enough stature to receive an unsolicited bottle of El Dorado’s new High Ester Blend (LBI / DHE). For non-geeks, those acronyms stand for “La Bonne Intention / Diamond High Ester,” signifying that this is a blend of never-before-released “high ester” marques from two unique stills at Guyana’s Diamond Distillery.

Specifically, we’re taking about high-ester distillate from the John Dore Double Retort Copper Pot Still and the La Bonne Intention marque from the four-column metal French Savalle Still. The former still dates back to the 1950s and is the only one of its kind at the historic distillery. The latter is much older, inherited from another distillery in Guyana that operated as far back as the 1800s.

El Dorado High Ester Blend includes rums from two unique stills at Guyana's Diamond Distillery.
El Dorado High Ester Blend includes rums from two unique stills at Guyana’s Diamond Distillery.

A side note here that the Diamond distillery and El Dorado share ownership (Demerara Distillers Ltd., aka DDL), so this release can be seen as El Dorado throwing its hat into the ring that independent bottlers have long dominated but has just recently gained at lot of traction in rum enthusiast circles: High-proof, high-ester, uncompromising rums with a pedigree. Rums from Jamaica, known for its “high-ester funk bombs,” have been most notable in this category.

This rum clocks in at a cask strength 57% ABV (114 proof), well above El Dorado’s normal (and industry standard) 40%, which I heartily applaud. It’s a different animal than El Dorado’s flagship aged rums (the 8-, 12- and 15-year-old blends) as well as the dark but lightly aged 151-proof rums (from Diamond, Hamilton, Lemon Hart, et al.) that are essential bottles in our Tiki arsenal. Just not as far removed as you might think. More on that shortly.

The bottle says it was distilled in 2012, which means it likely spent around 12 years in ex-Bourbon casks in Diamond’s aging warehouse. Indeed, the color as very similar to El Dorado 12. The nose, however, is another matter. The flavors are much deeper, with heady aromas of vanilla, toffee and honey most noticeable to my admittedly unsophisticated olfactory senses. There were some subtle cinnamon and fruit aromas as well.

At first sip, I immediately noticed the orange peel and spices prevalent in the blend, as advertised. Sweet vanilla is present, along with slight hints of chocolate and caramel. The spicy finish starts strong before fading slowly, perhaps the best feature of a neat sip.

Continue reading “REVIEW: El Dorado’s new High Ester Blend could be a mixologist’s secret weapon”

LIVE COVERAGE & REVIEW: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success

LIVE COVERAGE & REVIEW: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success

If there were any doubts that the inaugural “next gen” Don the Beachcomber restaurant and tropical bar would not live up to the high standards of its namesake, they were quickly put to rest during last week’s grand opening in Madeira Beach on Florida’s southwest Gulf Coast.

Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach looked immaculate before opening to the public at 11 a.m. on Feb. 23 (left). By the evening, nearly every indoor seat was filled. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)
Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach looked immaculate before opening to the public at 11 a.m. on Feb. 23 (left). By the evening, nearly every indoor seat was filled. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)

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Previous: Revived Don the Beachcomber brand opens first location in southwest Florida
BREAKING NEWS: Don the Beachcomber announces new bar concept, three upcoming locations in Florida (April 2024)

The first location in a planned national rollout of escapist establishments inspired by the founding father of faux Polynesian cocktails opened to the public on Friday, Feb. 23, after three days of private parties for friends, family and VIPs. Owned and operated by Tampa- based 23 Restaurant Services, the vast 298-capacity restaurant was firing on all cylinders from the get-go.

“We are thrilled with our opening weekend, starting with a largely attended VIP party on Thursday evening,” Marc Brown, president of 23 Restaurant Services, said via email Monday. “We had over 1,200 guests join us Friday through Sunday.”

“We continue to be so excited to be a part of this community and look forward to sharing our amazing vibe and delicious food and drinks with you all,” he said, noting the huge social media reaction and “overwhelmingly positive” reviews.

The vintage booths at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, seen before the grand opening on Feb. 23, were designed by Tiki Diablo with contributions from others in the Tiki community. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
The vintage booths at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, seen before the grand opening on Feb. 23, were designed by Tiki Diablo with contributions from others in the Tiki community. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

We attended Thursday’s pre-opening party as well as lunch and dinner seatings during Friday’s service, witnessing a nearly flawless launch by every measurable standard. The well-trained staff of managers, greeters, servers, food-runners, bussers, and bartenders operated like a well-oiled machine. And if there were any culinary or mixological misfires from the kitchen or bar, they were few and far between.

When we arrived late for the first official dinner service, all but one of the 20 tables and booths inside the highly immersive restaurant was full, and all of the 30 or so bar seats were taken. On the patio under a large thatched roof, at least a third of the tables were full despite a steady drizzle. Our Uber driver said he had been taking passengers there all day.

Customers were three deep at the bar for hours during the peak of service, beverage director Marie King told us later. “It was a good night.” And the crowds kept coming. The restaurant was just as packed when we left hours later, around 10 p.m.

The outdoor patio at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach has a different feel during daytime and evening hours. The huge poles were carved on-site by Tiki Diablo and his crew. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / Feb. 22-23, 2024)
The outdoor patio at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach has a different feel during daytime and evening hours. The huge poles were carved on-site by Tiki Diablo and his crew. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward / Feb. 22-23, 2024)

Managing partner Sebastien Amoruso seemed very satisfied while surveying the scene and monitoring first-day operations. “It’s a good day,” he said during dinner service. “I’m happy. For the first day, we’re doing great.”

Amoruso estimated that 500 guests would be seated on opening day, but this might not include many who bellied up to the bar and didn’t register in the computerized point-of-sale system. I counted roughly 112 seats inside and 115 outside, plus lots of room for standing near the bar.

More seats could be added if needed, Amoruso, said. If opening weekend is any indication, that may be necessary. Saturday night was even busier than Friday, reported Donn Beach biographer Tim “Swanky” Glazner, who attended both.

The elaborately themed bar at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach is prepped and ready to go before the grand opening on Feb. 23. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)
The elaborately themed bar at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach is prepped and ready to go before the grand opening on Feb. 23. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)

But the venue never seemed crowded, with plenty of room for guests to relax and enjoy the atmosphere. Amoruso cited the expertise and experience of 23 Restaurant Services.

Continue reading “LIVE COVERAGE & REVIEW: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success”

Revived Don the Beachcomber brand opens first location in southwest Florida

BREAKING NEWS: Revived Don the Beachcomber brand opens first location in southwest Florida

Updated Feb. 28

Nearly 100 years after its namesake founder developed and popularized the Polynesian-themed restaurant and bar concept, the Don the Beachcomber brand is re-launching this week with the first of multiple locations scheduled to roll out in Florida over the next several years.

LIVE COVERAGE & REVIEW: Don the Beachcomber grand opening in Florida is a smashing success
Bonus cocktail recipe below: Sunakora Zombie
Previous coverage: First new Don the Beachcomber location on track to open in early 2024

The indoor dining areas at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla., include booths plus table and bar seating.  (Don the Beachcomber photos)
The indoor dining areas at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla., include booths plus table and bar seating. (Don the Beachcomber photos)

The restaurant in Madeira Beach, between St. Petersburg and Clearwater, is scheduled to open to the public on Friday, Feb. 23. Private events for friends, family and VIPs were held in the days prior. Partygoers no doubt will hoist a birthday toast Thursday to the Tiki bar pioneer.
* More Don the Beachcomber history

Ernest Raymond Gantt, who later changed his name to Donn Beach and opened the first Don the Beachcomber as a speakeasy during Prohibition in 1932, was born on Feb. 22, 1907, in rural Texas. His colorful life story will be documented in an upcoming book (Searching for Don the Beachcomber) and film The Donn of Tiki).

The new restaurant occupies an indoor-outdoor space at the Cambria Hotel at 15015 Madeira Way. It will be open seven days and nights, operating from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. on Sundays through Wednesdays, and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. on Thursdays through Saturdays.

“We’re fully staffed and ready to go” with more than 100 team members, said Lisa Longest, the director of marketing for Don the Beachcomber and other brands owned by Tampa-based 23 Restaurant Services. Friday’s grand opening will include a ribbon-cutting attended by city dignitaries right before the 11 a.m. opening, she said in a phone conversation Thursday.

A view of the interior and a vintage Chinese tile at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla., in January 2024. (Facebook photos)
A view of the interior and a vintage Chinese tile at Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla., in January 2024. (Facebook photos)

Call (727) 870-8454 or go to DonBeachcomber.com for more information. They are currently not taking reservations, so it’s first-come, first-served.

Originally planned for late 2023, then pushed to early 2024, the restaurant finally cleared all the bureaucratic hurdles and passed its final inspection, clearing the way for the grand opening. “We had to do a full build-out,” Longest said of the large space on the ground floor of the hotel. “It took time to get all the permits.”

This is a far cry from Don the Beachcomber’s tiny original bar in Hollywood. The restaurant has a total capacity of 298 with 92 seats inside and 120 outside.

Preview the food and drinks

The restaurant’s food is inspired by the faux Polynesian flavors pioneered by Don the Beachcomber, but the menu will also feature “elevated dishes that will appeal to all,” Longest said in an email following our phone conversation. Dishes will include a pupu platter featuring hand-made crab rangoon, chicken satay and sticky rib skewers, plus signature wings. “We will also feature tempura cauliflower, a variety of fried rice options, fresh grouper, and an array of gourmet burgers,” she said.

A sneak preview of the food menu at the new Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla.
A sneak preview of the food menu at the new Don the Beachcomber in Madeira Beach, Fla.

We got a sneak peek at the food and drink menus, which were designed by 23 Restaurant Services creative director Justin Peterson. The offerings are sure to please every taste – from hardcore Tikiphiles, to adventurous locals, to the hotel guests who simply stumble upon this slice of paradise. In fact, the main menu’s cover is emblazoned with Donn Beach’s mantra: “If you can’t get to paradise, I’ll bring it to you.”

Continue reading “Revived Don the Beachcomber brand opens first location in southwest Florida”

Top 10 stories of 2023: Tiki resurgence and appreciation breathes life into year marked by loss

Top 10 stories of 2023: Tiki resurgence and appreciation breathes life into year marked by loss

Like many recent years, 2023 was defined by loss, from a deadly natural disaster to the passing of a beloved artist. But there are two other words that better sum up 2023: Aspiration and revival. Among the year’s highlights are the return of three historic restaurants, the resurrection of a legendary rum, a groundbreaking cocktail book that looks ahead by honoring the past, plus an overall renewed appreciation for Tiki culture and cocktails. If nothing else, it gives us hope for an eventful 2024.
Related: The Year in Tiki 2023: A look back at the top events in photos, video
Bonus recipes below: Beachcomber Punch | Ray’s Mystique

1. TRAGEDY IN MAUI: Lahaina devastated by wildfires

Wildfires ravaged Maui's historic resort city of Lahaina in August 2023. (Wikimedia Commons)
Wildfires ravaged Maui’s historic resort city of Lahaina in August 2023. (Wikimedia Commons)

Wildfires swept across the island of Maui on Aug. 8, killing at least 100 people in one of the nation’s deadliest disasters. The fires destroyed most of Lahaina – the original capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom – on the northwest coast. Residents fled as the blazes incinerated thousands of structures, causing more than $5 billion in damage.

Among the historic structures lost were the Old Lahaina Courthouse, Waiola Church, Pioneer Inn, and Kimo’s restaurant. Lahaina’s famous banyan tree, planted in 1873, had most of its foliage charred, though was still standing after the wildfires.

Before the fires, the Lahaina Historic District was a bustling tourist destination with stores and restaurants attracting many visitors. The district included 60 historic sites with Front Street ranked one of the “Top Ten Greatest Streets” by the American Planning Association. Lahaina was also a popular whale-watching site. It has a long history as a shipping and whaling town.

The wildfires were attributed to dry, gusty conditions created by a strong high-pressure area north of Hawaii, and Hurricane Dora to the south. The death toll is the largest for a wildfire in the United States since the Cloquet Fire of 1918 in northern Minnesota, which claimed 453 lives.

The historic tree in Lahaina's Banyan Court Park, shown in 2016, survived the 2023 wildfires. (Wikimedia Commons)
The historic tree in Lahaina’s Banyan Court Park, shown in 2016, survived the 2023 wildfires. (Wikimedia Commons)

President Biden ordered the mobilization of “all available federal assets” to respond to the wildfires, including the Navy, Coast Guard, National Guard, and FEMA. Other countries pledged aid, and fund-raising efforts across the U.S. raised $30 million within 10 days. The Maui Strong Fund, which provides financial resources to support the immediate and long-term recovery needs for the people and places affected by the wildfires, has raised more than $177 million to date and awarded grants totaling more than $86 million.

The disaster was also a call to action for many in the Tiki community, which united for fund-raisers and other special events. From bars and restaurants, to concerts and special events, supporters rallied to help in any way they could. Mark Riddle donated profits from the sale of his Lahaina Sunset album, which was inspired by a trip to Maui.

In mid-December, the heart of Lahaina reopened to residents and business owners as the historic banyan tree began sprouting new leaves. As of late December, Lahaina opened its remaining schools and welcomed tourists back to areas unaffected by the fires. Maui county officials say rebuilding the burned structures won’t begin for another 18-24 months, and big-picture plans are hazy. Rebuilding completely, including replacing all of the lost structures, will cost an estimated $5.5 billion.

With the exception of Lahaina, Maui is open and there is plenty to see and experience, according to the GoHawaii.com website. Guests are urged to “visit with aloha, compassion and empathy,” and to support local businesses. The MauiNuiFirst.com website offers many other suggestions.

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2. DON THE BEACHCOMBER: Anticipation for new restaurant chain, film and book reaches fever pitch

A classic portrait of Don the Beachcomber inspired a new mug by Eekum Bookum. The new restaurant in Madeira Beach, Fla., will feature a similar photo op. (Facebook photos)
A classic portrait of Don the Beachcomber inspired a new mug by Eekum Bookum. The new restaurant in Madeira Beach, Fla., will feature a similar photo op. (Facebook photos)

While slowly building for years, interest in the founding father of the 20th century Polynesian restaurant explosion went through the roof in 2023 as three major projects neared the finish line. By the end of the year, a new Don the Beachcomber restaurant in Southwest Florida was hiring staff and putting the final touches on construction. The Donn of Tiki documentary was 99 percent complete as the filmmakers finished up the end credits and licensing rights. Meanwhile, the manuscript for Tim “Swanky” Glazner’s book, Searching for Don the Beachcomber, was nearing the design and editing stages. After several years of non-stop work, these projects are now poised for a major splash in the new year and beyond.

The revival of the Don the Beachcomber brand took center stage after the announcement in February that Florida-based 23 Restaurant Services would be reviving the restaurant chain nationwide, beginning with multiple locations in the Sunshine State expected to open in the next several years. Skeptics were quickly assured of the legitimacy of the project when veteran bar manager Marie King was plucked from the venerable Tonga Hut to become director of beverage. In addition to leading the oldest Tiki bar in Los Angeles, King had previously built the cocktail program at the last Don the Beachcomber restaurant in the continental U.S., which closed in Huntington Beach, Calif., in 2018. The design of the new restaurants is in the capable hands of artist Daniel “Tiki Diablo” Gallardo, long admired for his expertise and craftsmanship in building traditional Tiki bar spaces.

Continue reading “Top 10 stories of 2023: Tiki resurgence and appreciation breathes life into year marked by loss”