There’s nothing more ubiquitous during the Christmas season than a traditional eggnog, whether its a non-alcoholic version for the whole family or a boozy variation featuring whiskey, rum and/or brandy. It’s hard to mess up this holiday standard if you know what you’re doing, so we saw no need to weigh in with a unique recipe of our own. Until now.
Over the past decade or so, we’ve tasted some excellent examples of modern nogs at the annual Miracle and Sippin’ Santa pop-up bars. In general, the craft cocktail revival has raised the bar on this formerly cringey classic that was more often served out of a carton.
Esteemed author and barkeep Jeffrey Morgenthaler is widely credited with championing eggnog with a craft cocktail slant, leading to a plethora of modern recipes. The recent explosion of local Christmas pop-ups that followed in Miracle’s wake has made the options even more plentiful.
But even in its most elevated form, eggnog is not typically a showcase for bold and aggressive rums. Kevin Crossman’s Ultimate Egg Nog is solid, but it splits the base with bourbon. Inspired by Derek Cole’s Tiki Eggnog, updated this year on his Make and Drink channel on YouTube, I sought to lean into the Tiki spices but also bring to the table the most flavor-packed (and potent) rum(s) in a classic eggnog format.
The result is the Atomic Navy Nog, featuring not one but two Navy-style rums that have been calling my name since their release. Both Beachbum Berry’s Navy Grog Blend from Hamilton Rum and Mister Fogg Navy Rum from Planteray are outstanding mixing rums that deserve a lot more use beyond the namesake Navy Grog.
You could easily use one bottle or the other in this recipe if that’s all you have, but the 50/50 blend is surprisingly not too muddled or muted. In the Don the Beachcomber tradition, two rums are indeed better than one, even if they already are complex three- and four-country blends. To complete the link back to Donn Beach, I tried to employ some of his other favorite ingredients (cinnamon syrup, Gardenia Mix) to give the nog some depth of flavor beyond the rum.
The result, I hope, is a spicy and rummy eggnog that retains its classic form but gives rum and Tiki aficionados an extra special treat.
As November approaches and most of the country starts to buckle down for the winter, South Florida’s thoughts turn to … RUM, of course. More specifically, the Miami Rum Festival in Coral Gables, which celebrates the world’s most diverse spirit with three days of seminars and tasting events that target everyone from newbies to high-end enthusiasts, to industry professionals.
But the Miami Rum Renaissance Festival is the grand daddy of them all in the hottest of the rum hotbeds, launched in 2009 by longtime rum collectors and enthusiasts Robin and Robert Burr, author of Rob’s Rum Guide. This year’s gathering will be fifth at the historic Coral Gables Woman’s Club and the 15th overall.
“South Florida is the number one rum market in the world and its only fitting that we present Miami Rum Fest as the best rum tasting program in the United States once a year in this location,” Robert Burr is quoted as saying. “Its also a chance for the international rum community to come together, from the islands of the Caribbean and the Americas to Europe, Asia, Australia, Africa and beyond.”
The participating brands are carefully curated by the Burrs, reflecting both their interests in the global variety but also boutique and local producers who may not yet be major players. The website lists 68 different brands, and you can expect most to bring multiple expressions of their rum to the grand tasting, set for 2 to 5 p.m. Sunday, Nov. 10. If you buy a VIP ticket, you get early entry at 12:30.
If you want to dive deeper into the history and techniques used to create today’s finest rums, be sure to check out the seminars on Saturday, Nov. 9, at the Marriott. One ticket allows you access to all three, including Tiki Evolution: The Historic Rums and Iconic Cocktails of The Mai-Kai, which I’ll have the pleasure of presenting along with Kern Mattei and Cory Starr, the longtime manager and new beverage director at the Fort Lauderdale restaurant (est. 1956).
While I’ve attended and covered the festival for the blog nearly every year (see links below), this will be The Atomic Grog’s first seminar and our first time participating since the memorable Zombie Jamboree cocktail competition hosted by Jeff “Beachbum” Berry in 2011. We hope to see you there!
Following is a rundown on what you can expect at the 2024 festival.
Saturday’s seminars
The Miami Rum Festival has always offered a wide array of seminars and expert master classes for its participants. In recent years, these educational opportunities have been held on the event’s first day at the Marriott Courtyard Coral Gables, less than a mile from the tasting venue at the Coral Gables Woman’s Club.
That’s not to say the seminars don’t involve tasting rums. To the contrary, many of the intimate events have featured numerous samples of rare and exclusive spirits. The all-inclusive ticket ($79) also includes food and refreshments served during the breaks between seminars. Seating is limited, so advance reservations are encouraged. Get your seminar ticket now.
A much-anticipated book dedicated to unraveling the enigmatic history of “the taste thrill of the century” has been welcomed with open arms by the Tiki community and beyond, quenching our insatiable thirst for esoteric topics. Not to mention tasty tropical cocktails.
So what is this taste thrill that caused so much intrigue? Rum? Bitters? Pineapple or some other exotic tropical fruit? Not quite, but close. Of course, we’re talking about Fassionola: The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient, researched and written by Gregorio Pantoja and Martin S. Lindsay.
The authors not only dug up the complete story of a unique product that was in danger of becoming a footnote in 20th century mixology, they also uncovered the original “P/Fassionola” formula from the 1930s and have begun releasing it to the public with the help of noted mixologist Daniel “Doc” Parks.
The 288-page book, self-published by the authors, is loaded with historic photos and images plus more than 100 recipes. Among these are many unpublished classics as well as new drinks by some of today’s top cocktail creators. This includes an exclusive new tribute to a Mai-Kai cocktail that had previously not been posted on The Atomic Grog blog.
After a late 2023 digital release, hard copies became available in late spring and can be purchased at Shop.ClassicSanDiego.com in both softcover and limited-edition hardback signed by the authors and Parks.
You know the summer event season is underway when The Hukilau blows through South Florida in early June, serving up a whirlwind weekend of live music, expert symposiums, pool parties, vendors, and cocktails crafted by notable bartenders from around the world. As a bonus this year, hundreds of Hukilau passholders were invited to attend an event inside freshly renovated spaces of the historic Mai-Kai restaurant for the first time in five years. RELATED:The Hukilau 2024 live coverage, photos and video from social media
The Hukilau 2024 – June 6-9 at the Beachcomber Resort & Club in Pompano Beach. Featuring live music (Messer Chups, Surfer Joe, L’Exotighost, Slowey and the Boats, Lords of Atlantis, The Intoxicators, The Disasternauts, The Mermers, Skinny Jimmy Stingray), symposiums and classes (Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Ian “Rum Ambassador” Burrell, David Wondrich, Matt Pietrek, Daniele Dalla Pola, Spike Marble, Marie King, Lucky Munro), 20+ guest cocktail bars, pool parties, Tiki Treasures Bazaar, plus more.
• The Hukilau on social media: Instagram | Facebook page and group
The location is also hard to beat. While South Florida’s heat and humidity can be stifling at this time of year, the location of a boutique hotel directly on the Atlantic Ocean with its gentle breezes and beachfront access makes up for that. The Hukilau takes over the entire 140-room Beachcomber Resort for three nights and parts of four days, meaning the immersion in a tropical paradise is complete. Attendees spill over into other beachfront hotels, and classes were also held this year in a nearby event space.
After more than 20 years (this was the 21st live event in South Florida and 22nd overall), event attendees (known as “villagers”) know what to expect with the weather. Sporadic showers are welcome to cool things off, but this year was even hotter than usual, averaging around 90 in the day and 78 in the evening. Many activities are held outdoors, which can be a challenge.
But the resort’s pools and shaded areas, not to mention all the cool beverages, gave guests ample ways to beat the heat. Other than an early Saturday storm, the event was free of rain and nobody seemed to mind the challenges Mother Nature presented. Like Tiki itself, the event was the perfect escape from the daily grind.
As detailed in our full preview in March, the lineup of bands performing this year had an unprecedented global flair. Surf and exotica groups dominated, and musicians hailing from Russia, Spain, Italy and around the United States made the trek to perform on the main poolside stage as well as several other spots around the Beachcomber property.
The performances lived up to the hype and anticipation with all the bands delivering top-notch sets, from the Mermers on Thursday night to the Saturday night headlining hijinx of The Disasternauts. Saturday’s early afternoon rain slowed the momentum but couldn’t stop the party. Slowey and the Boats shifted to an evening set under the courtyard tent, where they also played Friday night to give the bungalow parties a perfect laid-back soundtrack. They also performed poolside on Friday afternoon.
Messer Chups, L’Exotighost and Lords of Atlantis all played The Hukilau for the first time, while Surfer Joe made his second appearance. They peformed on the main stage both Friday and Saturday, allowing villagers more opportunity to catch these rare treats. Hukilau stalwarts The Intoxicators also played twice, headlining Thursday night under the South Tiki Hut and returning for a blistering afternoon set poolside on Saturday. And don’t forget local guitar slinger Skinny Jimmy Stingray, who kicked off Saturday’s party on the main stage.
Below you’ll find photos of all the bands presented in chronological order. We also captured six of the nine bands on video. You can watch the full song clips below, or click here and bookmark our Hukilau 2024 playlist on YouTube for future enjoyment.
Returning to The Hukilau seven years after their 2017 debut, The Mermers bought tons of talent and creativity to their set of instrumental alternative surf and exotica. The foursome from Gainesville, Fla., has two albums to its credit and performs extensively across the region.
Hailing from Madrid, Spain, L’Exotighost brought a new spin on classic exotica to The Hukilau with a distinctive style that employed guitar, drums and bass ukulele, plus vibraphone, theremin and other exotic sounds. The four-piece band’s poolside sets Friday and Saturday featured songs from its latest album, Kamongo (2022), available on Hi-Tide Recordings.
The East Coast’s longest-running Polynesian Pop weekender features an all-star lineup of musical, mixological and scholarly talent for its annual gathering in South Florida next month. In other words, The Hukilau 2024 is a top-tier smorgasbord of Tiki delights.
With the early June dates just around the corner, organizers have been busy finalizing all the various seminars, classes and expert presentations featuring some of the top names in the spirits world. Fans of the worldwide instrumental surf scene will happy to see the schedule features some of the top bands playing on multiple nights.
Along with the plethora of guest bartenders, nightly bungalow parties, and marketplace full of artists and vendors, the challenge (as usual) will be how much fun The Hukilau’s “villagers” can pack into the four-day event. Following is a handy guide that might help.
This story will cover recently confirmed additions, including a day-by-day schedule, full lineup of classes and symposiums, the Tiki Treasures Bazaar vendors, plus the official 2024 mug. You’ll also find details on the exclusive tours of The Mai-Kai.
Rooms are still available, so if you plan on attending you should reserve now before they sell out. The Hukilau reservations are available only by phone at (954) 941-7830. Note: You must book three nights (Thursday-Saturday). If the Beachcomber sells out, or if you prefer a quieter hotel just 2 miles to the south, you can book a room at the Plunge Beach Resort via the link on The Hukilau website.
After lodging is secured, you’ll want to start your Hukilau adventure on the tickets page, where you can secure your multi-day pass that will give you access to most of the fun at no extra charge. The passes page includes a breakdown of what you get with the South Seas ($599 + fees) and Aloha (379 + fees) passes. There’s also a Saturday-only Palm Pass ($169 + fees) that will get you into that day’s pool party (featuring all of the top bands), the Tiki Treasure Bazaar, and that evening’s bungalow parties.
While most presentations are included with a multi-day pass, premium tastings and classes require a separate tickets. All are listed on the site and noted below. Cocktails during the pool and bungalow parties are included with all passes.
Proving that the modern Tiki scene is truly a worldwide phenomenon, The Hukilau has lined up one of the most geographically diverse groups of musicians, cocktail and rum experts, bartenders, and special guests in recent memory.
When the East Coast’s longest-running Polynesian Pop weekender returns for its 22nd gathering in South Florida this June, its guests (aka villagers) will not only get an exclusive experience at the historic Mai-Kai, they will have a rare opportunity to traverse the globe … Hukilau-style.
Where else can you taste spirits with London’s “Rum Ambassador,” then rock out with a Russian band while enjoying tropical drinks from a Paris bartender? Follow that up with classic cocktails and a Tiki history class with an acclaimed New Orleans author and bar owner, poolside parties featuring mixologists from Los Angeles to Cozumel, and live surf and exotica music from Italy and Spain.
You would be hard pressed to find a more diverse group of entertainers and experts at a retro-themed Tiki event. The Hukilau’s organizers are also making a conscious attempt this year to include symposiums that spotlight the cultural diversity prevalent in today’s worldwide Tiki bar scene.
All this – plus a chance to be among the first to see the restored Mai-Kai – await guests at the June 6-9 event. With the restaurant in the final stages of its multi-year, multimillion-dollar refurbishment, it’s unclear if it will be fully open. But even if not, The Hukilau ticket-holders will get exclusive access and a tour. Note: An Aloha or South Seas pass is required to join the tour. [More info]
The Hukilau – June 6-9 at the Beachcomber Resort & Club in Pompano Beach. Featuring live music (Messer Chups, Surfer Joe, L’Exotighost, Slowey and the Boats, Lords of Atlantis, The Intoxicators, The Disasternauts, The Mermers, Skinny Jimmy Stingray), symposiums and classes (Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, Ian “Rum Ambassador” Burrell, David Wondrich, Matt Pietrek, Spike Marble), 20+ guest cocktail bars, pool parties, Tiki Treasures Bazaar, plus more. More info below:Bands | Presenters | Guest bars | Special events | Hotel
* The Hukilau on social media: Instagram | Facebook page and group
This will be the event’s fourth straight year at the lush and tropical Beachcomber in Pompano Beach, just northeast of Fort Lauderdale. The boutique hotel offers a laid-back atmosphere and beachy vibe, which sets The Hukilau apart. There will also be events at The Mai-Kai, with details still to be determined (more info below).
The tropical drinks world became a less exciting and flamboyant place earlier this month when Italian master mixologist Daniele Dalla Pola closed up shop at Esotico Miami after nearly 5 years of crowd-pleasing cocktails and cuisine.
But his influence and creative flair will live on at the adjacent Kaona Room, which will continue to be operated by his son while Dalla Pola sets off on his next adventure. The remaining partners will transform the Esotico space into a new bar and restaurant concept, but the vintage Tiki-themed speakeasy remains open and serving some of the best exotic cocktails (and food) in Miami.
Dalla Pola’s exit was sudden but not unexpected under the circumstances. Legal issues with his work visa make it necessary for him to leave the United States and return to his native Italy, among other destinations, in the coming months. He eventually plans to return to help run the Kaona Room with Billy Dalla Pola when he can legally do so. But in the meantime, he has multiple projects in the works.
Esotico opened on Aug. 15, 2019, a joint venture between Dalla Pola and Miami’s Graspa Group. At 3,400 square feet, it took up a huge space in the ground floor of the Canvas Condominiums in downtown’s Arts & Entertainment District. [See opening photos]
Aloha! Closing the bar today and writing these words is not easy, but this is a step I take because it’s time for a change, time to refresh, time to rethink, and to build something new. I step out from my project Esotico Miami which will move on under a new concept led by my trusted partners, Graspa Group.
Although I will leave Miami for some time, my son Billy Dalla Pola, will continue what I’ve started at The Kaona Room. … As I move forward, I’ll be excited to announce something new, hopefully very soon. Stay tropical!
Esotico was the next evolutionary step for the acclaimed bar owner, who made his name in the drinks world with Nu Lounge Bar in Bologna (in which he remains a partner). Dalla Pola first came to the United States more than 25 years ago, and his son was born in Miami in 1999.
Dalla Pola represented rum giant Bacardi while bartending in Miami before establishing himself as a force on the worldwide beverage scene. His presentations on Tiki cocktails have always been well received. Besides the bar in Italy, he owns a piece of the Alamea brand of liquors, which was founded in 2016 and is now distributed in 14 countries.
His career now comes full circle as he once again hits the road to attend events and spread the gospel about rum, cocktails and Tiki culture. His first stop after leaving Miami was Shanghai for the Asian Bar Awards, followed by more appearances across China sponsored by Bacardi.
We’ll detail more of his upcoming plans below, including a new signature rum and a cocktail book. But first, here’s what’s been happening in Miami.
I’m honored to have been chosen as a “rum influencer” of high enough stature to receive an unsolicited bottle of El Dorado’s new High Ester Blend (LBI / DHE). For non-geeks, those acronyms stand for “La Bonne Intention / Diamond High Ester,” signifying that this is a blend of never-before-released “high ester” marques from two unique stills at Guyana’s Diamond Distillery.
Specifically, we’re taking about high-ester distillate from the John Dore Double Retort Copper Pot Still and the La Bonne Intention marque from the four-column metal French Savalle Still. The former still dates back to the 1950s and is the only one of its kind at the historic distillery. The latter is much older, inherited from another distillery in Guyana that operated as far back as the 1800s.
A side note here that the Diamond distillery and El Dorado share ownership (Demerara Distillers Ltd., aka DDL), so this release can be seen as El Dorado throwing its hat into the ring that independent bottlers have long dominated but has just recently gained at lot of traction in rum enthusiast circles: High-proof, high-ester, uncompromising rums with a pedigree. Rums from Jamaica, known for its “high-ester funk bombs,” have been most notable in this category.
This rum clocks in at a cask strength 57% ABV (114 proof), well above El Dorado’s normal (and industry standard) 40%, which I heartily applaud. It’s a different animal than El Dorado’s flagship aged rums (the 8-, 12- and 15-year-old blends) as well as the dark but lightly aged 151-proof rums (from Diamond, Hamilton, Lemon Hart, et al.) that are essential bottles in our Tiki arsenal. Just not as far removed as you might think. More on that shortly.
The bottle says it was distilled in 2012, which means it likely spent around 12 years in ex-Bourbon casks in Diamond’s aging warehouse. Indeed, the color as very similar to El Dorado 12. The nose, however, is another matter. The flavors are much deeper, with heady aromas of vanilla, toffee and honey most noticeable to my admittedly unsophisticated olfactory senses. There were some subtle cinnamon and fruit aromas as well.
At first sip, I immediately noticed the orange peel and spices prevalent in the blend, as advertised. Sweet vanilla is present, along with slight hints of chocolate and caramel. The spicy finish starts strong before fading slowly, perhaps the best feature of a neat sip.
Like many recent years, 2023 was defined by loss, from a deadly natural disaster to the passing of a beloved artist. But there are two other words that better sum up 2023: Aspiration and revival. Among the year’s highlights are the return of three historic restaurants, the resurrection of a legendary rum, a groundbreaking cocktail book that looks ahead by honoring the past, plus an overall renewed appreciation for Tiki culture and cocktails. If nothing else, it gives us hope for an eventful 2024. Related:The Year in Tiki 2023: A look back at the top events in photos, video Bonus recipes below:Beachcomber Punch | Ray’s Mystique
1. TRAGEDY IN MAUI: Lahaina devastated by wildfires
Wildfires swept across the island of Maui on Aug. 8, killing at least 100 people in one of the nation’s deadliest disasters. The fires destroyed most of Lahaina – the original capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom – on the northwest coast. Residents fled as the blazes incinerated thousands of structures, causing more than $5 billion in damage.
Among the historic structures lost were the Old Lahaina Courthouse, Waiola Church, Pioneer Inn, and Kimo’s restaurant. Lahaina’s famous banyan tree, planted in 1873, had most of its foliage charred, though was still standing after the wildfires.
Before the fires, the Lahaina Historic District was a bustling tourist destination with stores and restaurants attracting many visitors. The district included 60 historic sites with Front Street ranked one of the “Top Ten Greatest Streets” by the American Planning Association. Lahaina was also a popular whale-watching site. It has a long history as a shipping and whaling town.
The wildfires were attributed to dry, gusty conditions created by a strong high-pressure area north of Hawaii, and Hurricane Dora to the south. The death toll is the largest for a wildfire in the United States since the Cloquet Fire of 1918 in northern Minnesota, which claimed 453 lives.
President Biden ordered the mobilization of “all available federal assets” to respond to the wildfires, including the Navy, Coast Guard, National Guard, and FEMA. Other countries pledged aid, and fund-raising efforts across the U.S. raised $30 million within 10 days. The Maui Strong Fund, which provides financial resources to support the immediate and long-term recovery needs for the people and places affected by the wildfires, has raised more than $177 million to date and awarded grants totaling more than $86 million.
The disaster was also a call to action for many in the Tiki community, which united for fund-raisers and other special events. From bars and restaurants, to concerts and special events, supporters rallied to help in any way they could. Mark Riddle donated profits from the sale of his Lahaina Sunset album, which was inspired by a trip to Maui.
In mid-December, the heart of Lahaina reopened to residents and business owners as the historic banyan tree began sprouting new leaves. As of late December, Lahaina opened its remaining schools and welcomed tourists back to areas unaffected by the fires. Maui county officials say rebuilding the burned structures won’t begin for another 18-24 months, and big-picture plans are hazy. Rebuilding completely, including replacing all of the lost structures, will cost an estimated $5.5 billion.
With the exception of Lahaina, Maui is open and there is plenty to see and experience, according to the GoHawaii.com website. Guests are urged to “visit with aloha, compassion and empathy,” and to support local businesses. The MauiNuiFirst.com website offers many other suggestions.
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2. DON THE BEACHCOMBER: Anticipation for new restaurant chain, film and book reaches fever pitch
While slowly building for years, interest in the founding father of the 20th century Polynesian restaurant explosion went through the roof in 2023 as three major projects neared the finish line. By the end of the year, a new Don the Beachcomber restaurant in Southwest Florida was hiring staff and putting the final touches on construction. The Donn of Tiki documentary was 99 percent complete as the filmmakers finished up the end credits and licensing rights. Meanwhile, the manuscript for Tim “Swanky” Glazner’s book, Searching for Don the Beachcomber, was nearing the design and editing stages. After several years of non-stop work, these projects are now poised for a major splash in the new year and beyond.
The revival of the Don the Beachcomber brand took center stage after the announcement in February that Florida-based 23 Restaurant Services would be reviving the restaurant chain nationwide, beginning with multiple locations in the Sunshine State expected to open in the next several years. Skeptics were quickly assured of the legitimacy of the project when veteran bar manager Marie King was plucked from the venerable Tonga Hut to become director of beverage. In addition to leading the oldest Tiki bar in Los Angeles, King had previously built the cocktail program at the last Don the Beachcomber restaurant in the continental U.S., which closed in Huntington Beach, Calif., in 2018. The design of the new restaurants is in the capable hands of artist Daniel “Tiki Diablo” Gallardo, long admired for his expertise and craftsmanship in building traditional Tiki bar spaces.
The pursuit of dangerous Zombies and other potent libations served in ominous mugs is a year-round pursuit for many of us. But the Halloween season is prime time for mixologists to conjure up creative new potions for the not-so-faint of heart.
To meet that challenge, we offer up a flight of three deadly drinks with a dark and foreboding flair. And, of course, more than a touch of Tiki.
• 1/4 ounce fresh orange juice
• 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice
• 1/2 ounce fresh grapefruit juice
• 1/2 ounce rich honey mix
• 3/4 ounces freshly brewed and chilled coffee
• 1 ounce dark Jamaican rum (Mai-Kai blend or substitute)
• 1 ounce gold (lightly aged) Spanish-style rum
• 1/2 ounces dark rum
• 1/4 ounce Mariano’s Mix #7
• 1/2 teaspoon allspice dram
• 1-2 dashes Angostura bitters
Pulse blend with 1 cup of crushed ice for 5 seconds. Strain into a chilled 6-ounce cocktail glass.
There’s a symphony of flavors packed into this small sipper. It’s rich and heavy on the spice and coffee, even more so than its big brother. Without the ice in the glass, it stays robust to the last drop. The bitters and allspice balance the sweet and sour notes, leaving the rums to form a solid but not overwhelming backbone.