PHOTOS, REVIEW: Trader Vic’s blends pre-Tiki vibe with contemporary cocktails at new Bamboo Room in South Beach

Trader Vic's blends pre-Tiki vibe with contemporary cocktails at new Bamboo Room in South Beach

It took 90 years for Trader Vic’s to make it to trendy South Beach, but the new Bamboo Room concept could be the right bar in the right place at the right time.

See more below
The space | The cocktails | Updated menu, more
Exclusive: Q&A with Trader Vic’s CEO Rhett Rosen
Bonus cocktail recipe: Suffering Bastard

With a capacity of 50, Bamboo Room by Trader Vic's is a small and elegant space that blends in perfectly with the Esmé Hotel and glamorous South Beach. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)
With a capacity of 50, Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s is a small and elegant space that blends in perfectly with the Esmé Hotel and glamorous South Beach. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)

Tucked into the newly renovated 1920s era Esmé Hotel Miami Beach, the speakeasy-style craft cocktail bar is stylistically a throwback to the pre-Tiki, post-Prohibition early days of founder Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron.

In fact, the Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s, as it’s officially known, is a callback to a tropical space inside Bergeron’s original Hinky Dinks restaurant in Oakland, Calif., circa 1934. Soon after, the Trader Vic’s brand took the world by storm as a dynamic Polynesian restaurant and bar concept, expanding globally as interest in South Seas exoticism dominated the pop culture consciousness in the mid 20th century.

Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group remains a venerable force worldwide with 25 locations in 11 countries. To augment the flagship brand, new concepts are positioned to expand the Trader Vic’s name into previously untapped markets and remain relevant in the 21st century.

PREVIEW: Trader Vic’s launches new Bamboo Room concept in South Beach

A bartender pours an inventive new cocktail (The Park Lane) while a Latin jazz band performs in the intimate Bamboo Room by Trader Vic's on Sept. 15. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)
A bartender pours an inventive new cocktail (The Park Lane) while a Latin jazz band performs in the intimate Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s on Sept. 15. (Photos by Hurricane Hayward)

In making upscale South Beach the first location of the new Bamboo Room concept, the hospitality group is returning to its roots as a luxury brand. This is a far cry from the previous branded bar and restaurant in Florida, the middle-of-the-road Trader Vic’s Island Bar & Grille in Sarasota (2010-2013).

Opening with a menu of just seven cocktails priced at $20-$25 would be risky just about anywhere else. But in one of the world’s top hospitality markets, it’s more like a Bam Adebayo slam dunk. One of the Miami Heat star’s predecessors, Chris Bosh, owned a lavish mansion just up the road that sold for a cool $38.5 million in 2022.

Let’s just hope potential guests have the willingness to seek it out, then appreciate the craft and care that went into both the space and its inventive cocktails. I will recommend it to anyone who lives in the area or visits for any reason, such as a show or event at the nearby Miami Beach Convention Center and Fillmore Miami Beach Theater.

Look for the small sign next to the entrance to Bamboo Room by Trader Vic's inside the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)
Look for the small sign next to the entrance to Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s inside the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)

Following is a full recap of my visit at the end of the opening weekend on Sunday, Sept. 15. As I sampled my way through the menu, I was privileged to meet and talk with two Trader Vic’s Hospitality Group executives who were in town for the opening. This story includes insights from both CEO Rhett Rosen and vice president of operations Raquel Rodriguez.

Beyond the Bamboo Room, I gained a new understanding of the Trader Vic’s brand, including exclusive details on an upcoming location planned for Hawaii, the first ever 100% company-approved outpost in the South Pacific. Also featured below is a Q&A with Rosen just before the opening.

Bamboo Room by Trader Vic’s – 1438 Washington Ave. in the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach, (305) 809-8050. Open seven days from 5:30 p.m.
BambooRoomMia.com | Instagram | Esméhotel.com
TraderVics.com | Instagram | Facebook

The space: From 1920s gambling den to exotic cocktail lair

The entrance to the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach on Washington Avenue. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)
The entrance to the Esmé Hotel Miami Beach on Washington Avenue. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / Sept. 15, 2024)

Esmé is a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of South Beach at the intersection of Washington Avenue and Espanola Way (see map), a historic former artist colony that dates back to 1925. The cluster of buildings was transformed into a hotel in 2021 after a $40 million renovation by Infinity Hospitality Group. It quickly became a stylish destination listed in the Michelin Guide.

The hotel offers valet parking, or you can find multiple public garages within a short walking distance. I found a reasonable rate at a garage on 16th Street, a 5-minute walk away. Your GPS or rideshare may drop you off at the hotel’s valet stand and understated entry facade, where there is no mention of bars or restaurants within, but don’t fret.

Simply enter the lobby area and take in the neo-Spanish-Mediterranean vibe as you proceed along the red carpet through this small building and the double doors at the end of the hall. This will lead you into a quaint outdoor courtyard and building painted with striking green and white stripes. That’s your destination, as the small green sign near the door will confirm.

Continue reading “PHOTOS, REVIEW: Trader Vic’s blends pre-Tiki vibe with contemporary cocktails at new Bamboo Room in South Beach”

Minimalist Tiki

Event preview: Tiki-a-Go-Go looks to the past for a fresh take on the modern weekender

Event preview: Tiki-a-Go-Go looks to the past for a fresh take on the modern weekender

Updated May 9

More than a quarter century into the modern revival, the appetite for Tiki weekenders has never been more voracious. But if you’re creating a new event, how do you stand out on an ever-more-crowded calendar?

Tiki-a-Go-Go 2024 in Orlando

PHOTOS, VIDEO: The first Tiki-a-Go-Go is a retro roadtrip through mid-century culture, appreciation
More event recaps
* The Mai-Kai reveals new images, plans for restoration at Orlando event, continues $15M project
* Don the Beachcomber announces new bar concept, three upcoming locations in Florida

For the organizers of the inaugural Tiki-a-Go-Go in Orlando, it was simple: Go back to the roots of the revival with an emphasis on what inspired the fascination with retro culture in the first place.

Their location in Central Florida in the shadow of the theme parks also makes the perfect setting to focus on Florida’s role in 20th century kitsch in addition to the over-arching Tiki craze. The icing on the cake is a partnership with the annual Magical Tiki Meet Up that folds that Disney World gathering into the weekend.

The result is a distinctive new event that adds even more depth and nuance to the annual Tiki event calendar. Event passes sold out in late March, with only a few tickets remaining for additional activities for passholders.

Tiki-a-Go-Go will host Tiki revival veterans including author Sven Kirsten, beverage director Marie King of Don the Beachcomber, and clothing designer Margo "Rocket Betty" Scott. (Tiki-a-Go-go / Facebook)
Tiki-a-Go-Go will host Tiki revival veterans including author Sven Kirsten, beverage director Marie King of Don the Beachcomber, and clothing designer Margo “Rocket Betty” Scott. (Tiki-a-Go-go / Facebook)

April 5-7 – Tiki-a-Go-Go at the Caribe Royale Resort in Orlando (Friday-Saturday). Featuring symposiums and classes (Sven Kirsten, Tim “Swanky” Glazner, Ed Hamilton, Spike Marble, “Typhoon Tommy” Allsmiller, Tiki Tom-Tom, Rocket Betty, David “Dr. Skipper” Marley, et al.), guest cocktail bars, live music (The Hula Girls, The Intoxicators, The Disasternauts, The Kreepy Tikis, Hot Rod Hornets, more), supper club and burlesque, artists and vendors, plus more. Magical Tiki Meet Up (Sunday) at the Magic Kingdom and Polynesian Village Resort at Walt Disney World.
More below: Personalize your experience | Q&A with the organizers
* Tiki-a-Go-Go on social media: Instagram | Facebook page and group

The venue is the Caribe Royale Resort, which will host all the Friday and Saturday events. The property was recently completely reimagined with the perfect tropical atmosphere and amenities for Tiki-a-Go-Go guests. All the rooms are suites with the standard one-bedroom including a living room with a sleeper sofa. Maximum occupancy is five in a suite and six in a villa.

The Caribe Royale Resort in Orlando. (Official photo)
The Caribe Royale Resort in Orlando. (Official photo)

There’s a giant pool with a 75-foot waterslide, a spa and hot tubs, multiple fitness and sports activities, plus eight restaurants and bars (including the Rum Bar). Most important for the purposes of Tiki-a-Go-Go, the resort features more than 240,000-square feet of meeting space.

Continue reading “Event preview: Tiki-a-Go-Go looks to the past for a fresh take on the modern weekender”

Sunshine State emerges as epicenter of Tiki revival in 2024

Sunshine State emerges as epicenter of Tiki revival in 2024

Updated March 2024

While California may still be king of the hill with its abundance of classic and modern Tiki bars, constant events and confluence of Polynesian Pop’s movers and shakers, another sunny state on the opposite side of the country is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for more than its beaches and theme parks.

Worlds collide: The Mai-Kai's manager, Kern Mattei, runs into Don the Beachcomber beverage director Marie King backstage in the cocktail prep area at Tiki Oasis in San Diego in August. They will both be very busy in 2024 with their establishments in Florida. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)
Worlds collide: The Mai-Kai’s manager, Kern Mattei, runs into Don the Beachcomber beverage director Marie King backstage in the cocktail prep area at Tiki Oasis in San Diego in August. They will both be very busy in 2024 with their establishments in Florida. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

This weekend’s return of Tiki Fever in Sarasota reminds us of all the things that make Florida a hot spot for seekers of a vintage experience. The event takes place at a classic retro resort and the state’s oldest Tiki bar (Bahi Hut). It includes four days of revelry featuring top bands, presenters, vendors, and more. It’s a relatively new event, celebrating its third gathering Thursday-Sunday, Oct. 5-8.

But next year is when it really heats up. A promising new weekender, Tiki-a-Go-Go, will debut in April in Orlando. The state’s vanguard Tiki event, The Hukilau, will return to southeast Florida in June.

Early 2024 should also mark the return of perhaps the state’s No. 1 destination for fans of classic Tiki, the revered Mai-Kai Restaurant and Polynesian Show. If that’s not enough, Florida is ground zero for the resurrection of the Don the Beachcomber restaurant brand. The Florida-based parent company plans to open at least two new locations in the state between now and the end of 2025.

The Hukilau draws cocktail and Tiki experts from around the world, including David Wondrich (left) and Jeff "Beachbum" Berry. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 2023)
The Hukilau draws cocktail and Tiki experts from around the world, including David Wondrich (left) and Jeff “Beachbum” Berry. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward / June 2023)

Sure, we’re still home to the ubiquitous “Florida Man,” often oppressive humidity, and increasingly questionable politics. But for all the reasons above, and more outlined below, Florida deserves to become a must-visit destination for fans of classic Tiki as well as the modern revival.

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FLORIDA TIKI EVENTS

Here’s a preview of the state’s three major weekenders, plus a roundup of other events of interest. (Florida-based artists, musicians and businesses are highlighted throughout the rest of this story with links.)

Continue reading “Sunshine State emerges as epicenter of Tiki revival in 2024”

Photos: The Mai-Kai updates bar menu, adds classic ‘lost’ cocktail

Updated June 2019

A new cocktail menu made its debut on May 17 in The Molokai bar at The Mai-Kai, marking first update to the classic tropical drink lineup since 2014.
Related: The Okole Maluna Society: The Mai-Kai Cocktail Guide | See all 100+ recipes

The 2018 cocktail menu at The Mai-Kai

The front and back covers are now blue, replacing the previous yellow. The centerspread featuring the classic tropical drinks remains the same color, and the entire menu has a matte finish (instead of the old laminated, shiny menu).

The 2018 cocktail menu at The Mai-Kai

The rum and wine lists are also updated …

The 2018 rum menu at The Mai-Kai

Continue reading “Photos: The Mai-Kai updates bar menu, adds classic ‘lost’ cocktail”

Three ‘secret cocktails’ drop in for a night of flights at The Mai-Kai

In the heyday of Tiki in the 1950s and ’60s, having one of the most extensive and iconic tropical drink menus was not enough. At The Mai-Kai in Fort Lauderdale, where the list of classic exotic cocktails runs to nearly 50, there were always requests for off-the-menu concoctions that everyone had heard about. To meet this demand, recipes were created but never added to the menu.

lost-cocktails

Decades later, there aren’t many requests for the Fog Cutter, Singapore Sling and Suffering Bastard. But that didn’t stop the Gumbo Limbo Chapter of the Fraternal Order of Moai from organizing an event that gave guests a taste of all three of these “secret cocktails.”

On Saturday, Feb. 21, starting at 5 p.m., The Molokiai bar filled up with more than 50 eager participants for a chance to taste a flight of the three mid-century classics that have never appeared on the 58-year-old tropical drink menu. For just $15, we received roughly half-sized samples of all three drinks. In addition to a large turnout of FOM members, several VIPs were in the house after participating in Emeril Lagasse’s “Tiki Showdown” the night before in Miami Beach: Jeff “Beachbum” Berry and Martin Cate.

Though the event was billed as “The Lost Cocktails of The Mai-Kai,” these three drinks were not really “lost,” manager Kern Mattei pointed out. “We’ve always had them, but nobody knew it,” he said. Their popularity fell by the wayside and people stopped requesting them. All three recipes date back to the early days of the restaurant, when famous mixologist Mariano Licudine worked with owners Bob and Jack Thornton to create a unique cocktail program based on Licudine’s experience as a bartender for decades for Tiki bar pioneer Don the Beachcomber. “They’re Mariano’s recipes,” Mattei said.

Here’s a look at the flight, and the special menu prepared by Mattei:

Each of the three drinks not only has its own distinctive taste, but also a unique and interesting back story:

Continue reading “Three ‘secret cocktails’ drop in for a night of flights at The Mai-Kai”

Mai-Kai cocktail review: Suffering no more, this Bastard finally gets a chance to shine

Updated July 2018
See below: Suffering Bastard review | UPDATED: Tribute recipes
NEW: The Mai-Kai updates bar menu, adds classic ‘lost’ cocktail
Related: Trade in Vic’s Mai Tai for this classic | Mai-Kai cocktail guide
More “lost cocktails” | Tropical drink family tree
Three classic ‘lost cocktails’ drop in for a night of flights at The Mai-Kai

When The Mai-Kai updated its cocktail menu in May 2018, a decision was made to revive one of the classic “lost cocktails” from the notebook of original mixologist Mariano Licudine, who led the bar program from 1956 to 1979. There were nearly a dozen to choose from, many of them ionic drinks that Licudine had brought with him from his days working for Don the Beachcomber in the 1940s and ’50s.

The Suffering Bastard, a longtime off-menu
The Suffering Bastard, a longtime off-menu “lost classic,” was added to the permanent menu in May 2018. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

Over the past five years, these lost cocktails have been featured at multiple special events, from The Hukilau to The Mai-Kai’s 60th anniversary party. In 2017, a special “Flashback Friday” promotion gave guests the opportunity to sample a different retired cocktail each month on that designated day. While many were popular, one stood out and earned a spot on the main menu, even though it was never on the menu to begin with.

The Suffering Bastard was de rigueur at mid-century Tiki bars. Like many other popular tropical cocktails of the era, it was bastardized (pun intended) and retooled to fit the needs of each particular establishment. The Trader Vic’s version was perhaps the most well-known, instantly recognizable by the iconic Suffering Bastard mug.

The Mai-Kai was no exception, but for reasons unknown it never appeared on the menu. Taking a cue from Trader Vic, Licudine created his Suffering Bastard as an alternative take on the Mai Tai. Of course, The Mai-Kai’s Mai Tai is nothing like Vic’s, and neither is the Suffering Bastard. Licudine did appropriate one distinctive touch from Vic: A large slice of cucumber as garnish. As odd as it seams, it really does work.

The Mai-Kai's version of the Suffering Bastard features a cucumber garnish, first popularized by Trader Vic. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward, May 2018)
The Mai-Kai’s version of the Suffering Bastard features a cucumber garnish, first popularized by Trader Vic. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward, May 2018)

The original Suffering Bastard, sans cucumber, was created in 1942 at Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo by mixologist Joe Scialom, a fascinating story uncovered by tropical drink historian and author Jeff “Beachbum” Berry. Scialom’s recipe – which includes gin, brandy, Rose’s lime juice, Angostura bitters and ginger beer – was revealed in the 2010 book, Beachbum Berry Remixed. An entire chapter is devoted to Scialom in Berry’s 2013 epic hardcover, Potions of the Caribbean: 500 Years of Tropical Drinks and the People Behind Them.

Before Berry and other Tiki revivalists came along in the 1990s, many of these classic cocktails were long forgotten. Without a slot on the menu at The Mai-Kai, it’s possible that the Suffering Bastard languished for decades in Licudine’s notebook before being rediscovered. The latest version includes a few new tweaks, so we’ve added a new tribute recipe below.

Continue reading “Mai-Kai cocktail review: Suffering no more, this Bastard finally gets a chance to shine”

Mai-Kai cocktail review: Trade in Vic’s Mai Tai for this classic

Mai-Kai cocktail review: Trade in Vic's Mai Tai for this classic

Updated August 2020
See below: Our Mai Tai review | Tribute recipe UPDATED
Related: The off-menu Suffering Bastard was just a Mai Tai with a kick
What could be Cooler than a Mai Tai history lesson? | Mai-Kai cocktail guide

More than 75 years after its invention, the Mai Tai is widely hailed as the definitive tropical drink. You’ll get some arguments from Zombie fans like myself, but there’s no denying that the Mai Tai is one of the world’s most popular and distinctive cocktails, period.

The Mai Tai (front) is one of The Mai-Kai's signature drinks. (Photo by by Go11Events.com, courtesy of The Mai-Kai; waitress: Maima)
The Mai Tai (front) is one of The Mai-Kai’s signature drinks. (Photo by Go11Events.com, courtesy of The Mai-Kai; waitress: Maima)

Much has been written about how to make an “authentic” Mai Tai, as created by Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron, circa 1944. Tiki cocktail author and historian Jeff “Beachbum” Berry has a very concise history lesson and recipe posted here. As the Bum points out, the argument over who really invented the drink persists to this day.

We subscribe to Berry’s theory that Trader Vic created the Mai Tai after tasting a Don the Beachcomber drink with a similar flavor profile called the Q.B. Cooler. Donn Beach, who created the Tiki bar concept in 1934 in Los Angeles, also had a drink called the Mai Tai Swizzle, but it was gone from the menu by 1937. It’s widely accepted that Vic frequented Don the Beachcomber in Hollywood before opening his first Trader Vic’s in Oakland. Could he have lifted the name from one drink and the flavor profile from another in creating his Mai Tai?

It’s entirely possible, but that has nothing to do with The Mai-Kai, or its version of the Mai Tai. The Mai-Kai already serves a descendant of the Q.B. Cooler called the K.O. Cooler (See our previous review). If you’re looking for the taste of a proto Trader Vic’s Mai Tai, try the K.O. Cooler.

The Mai Tai served at The Mai-Kai is one of many variations created in the wake of the success of the original drink. You’ll find some good examples from vintage Tiki restaurants in Beachbum Berry’s cocktail books and app, including the Bali Hai Mai Tai, Damon’s Mai Tai, Kon-Tiki Mai Tai and Surf Room Mai Tai. Until recently, many bars offered an inferior or bastardized copy. But the Tiki and craft cocktail movements have resulted in a much more creative atmosphere, especially where the Mai Tai is concerned. Check out the links below for examples:
* Florida bartender wins Chairman’s Reserve Mai Tai Challenge at The Mai-Kai
* More Mai Tai recipes on The Atomic Grog

A Mai Tai at The Mai-Kai in April 2013
A Mai Tai at The Mai-Kai in April 2013. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)

In the mid-century, however, The Mai-Kai was not quick to jump on the Mai Tai bandwagon. The cocktail has not been spotted on a menu before 1970 (see image). It’s missing from all previous menus in our collection, including this one from 1966.

At first, it was likely an off-menu drink made upon request, like the Scorpion and Suffering Bastard, two other Trader Vic’s classics popular with many guests. The latter finally made it to The Mai-Kai’s menu during the last major update in 2018.

Rather than copying Vic’s recipe, Mai-Kai mixologist Mariano Licudine put his own spin on the Mai Tai (and Suffering Bastard), owing to his roots as one of Don the Beachcomber’s early Filipino barmen. He worked behind one of Donn Beach’s original Hollywood bars in 1939 before becoming assistant bar manager at the Chicago location during his years there (1940-1955). He joined The Mai-Kai as bar manager in 1956, crafting its opening day menu with owners Bob and Jack Thornton.

Continue reading “Mai-Kai cocktail review: Trade in Vic’s Mai Tai for this classic”